What are we using instead of fusable links?

[Dave81]

The one thing you have to remember is fuse should not blow unless there is a problem (assuming you have the right fuse for the circuit) and when it blows check circuit for fault.

With fusible links it may take a long time for it to melt and then it may be too late.

I used a 50A fuse between alternator to battery and a 40A from battery(starter relay) to inside, which feeds everything I think.
I only have two other red cables on battery, one for MSD box and one to starter.

Hope it helps.

Ali,

Are you on stock wiring?

The 40Amp fuse sounds high to me.............

Going from memory, the stock ammeter wiring is 12 gauge with a 16 gauge fusible link (72 workshop manual.....would think its near the same setup for you Barracuda).

Think if you go by Max Chassis Amps 12 = 41Amp and 16 = 22Amp.

Now allowing for spikes whilst using a mini blade fuse......this is how I came to 25Amp Mini instead of the 16 gauge (22Amp) F.L.

I'd be a bit concerned that you are possibly allowing near full max amps into the entire ignition loop.....where the stock protection should kick in at 2/3rds of that and burn out.......Just wondered, has your stock wiring just become the non fusible link............toasty?

Again......not sure on your wiring so may be irrelevant if its been replaced and you have a big sound system......Just a concerned MMA member!

Sorry for going off topic Miles.........

[MilesnMiles]

Dave, not off topic at all, I appreciate all the suggestions and advice.
I should add that I do not have any electrical problems but just want to be well insured in case I do.
I haven't forgotten the day the live alternator wire came adrift from the loom and dropped onto the exhaust manifold big boom, short term fire, but fusible link saved the car.
My mate was following at the time and said blue flames came out of the exhausts
Don't want that happening again.

[steveo]

, with out getting into a long drawn out answer , & me making something sound more confusing than it really is , , as your factory wiring set up is prolly different to a 68/69 b-body with a rallye dash , in a nut shell on mine , removed the red & black wires that run to the amp meter completely ,
run a 60 amp wire from alternator to starter relay via a couple of 30 amp maxie fuses , then another 60 amp cable to from the starter relay to a junction / small fuse box up under the dash via another 30 amp maxie fuse , from there ran three separate thick gauge ( forget exactly was a long time ago ( prolly 40 - 45amp) to ignition switch , headlamp switch & fuse box & protected them each with 15 amp fuses , this is in addition to the factory fuse box set up , have wired in blade fuses else where , in the field wires etc too .
did originally think about using the midi fuse set up , but went with the maxi blade & standard in the end , for me less agro , to change if fuse blows ,
may well change this slightly sometime , seen new products come up for sale , that wern't available on the aftermarket when I done mine

picture below , you can just make out the maxie fuse holders on the driver side inner fender , by the master cylinder

[MilesnMiles]

Cheers Steve, you'd be surprised how similar our wiring is, Rallye dash included. Good advice, overkill never burnt out a wiring loom I'm sure!

[steveo]

i'll have to have a look up , the wiring diagram for a 73 RR , think they are on line my mopar site ,



this extra uprating , was also incase I wanted to ad a electric fuel pump again , MSD , modern radio , denso alternator , & one day I want to ad fast efi fuel injection , may be electric fan or two .

trouble is once you start with uprating & altering the factory set up , its just spirals out of control , & not looking stock anymore , one thing leads to another ,

should of started with a painless & or made the harnesses up from scratch , instead of staring with new M &H harnesses

[cadboy]

The one thing you have to remember is fuse should not blow unless there is a problem (assuming you have the right fuse for the circuit) and when it blows check circuit for fault.

With fusible links it may take a long time for it to melt and then it may be too late.

I used a 50A fuse between alternator to battery and a 40A from battery(starter relay) to inside, which feeds everything I think.
I only have two other red cables on battery, one for MSD box and one to starter.

Hope it helps.

Ali,

Are you on stock wiring?

The 40Amp fuse sounds high to me.............

Going from memory, the stock ammeter wiring is 12 gauge with a 16 gauge fusible link (72 workshop manual.....would think its near the same setup for you Barracuda).

Think if you go by Max Chassis Amps 12 = 41Amp and 16 = 22Amp.

Now allowing for spikes whilst using a mini blade fuse......this is how I came to 25Amp Mini instead of the 16 gauge (22Amp) F.L.

I'd be a bit concerned that you are possibly allowing near full max amps into the entire ignition loop.....where the stock protection should kick in at 2/3rds of that and burn out.......Just wondered, has your stock wiring just become the non fusible link............toasty?

Again......not sure on your wiring so may be irrelevant if its been replaced and you have a big sound system......Just a concerned MMA member!

Sorry for going off topic Miles.........

I will check that Dave, I can just change the fuse, thanks.

[Steve]

I used the one Si posted with a 30amp fuse in.

If you need an original style fusible link, let me know and I will pop my spare in the post to you. A modern Ford Focus alternator fusible link is the same

Cheers Steve