Crap fuel =poor starting?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Nov 24, 14 9:39 am

I've never had a problem starting with old fuel in my life.

I always used to fill the tank before storage (if I could afford to) to remove as much air as possible to prevent rusting the tank.

Not a problem with the Vette of course with it's plastic tank. So usually it's got less than a quarter tank in it over the winter.

The only "problem" I ever had was with carb and fuel pump gaskets drying out after the Challenger had stood for very long periods without running (which was most of it's life) and then I would get fuel leaks on first firing which usually sorted themselves out after warming the engine up.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Nov 24, 14 10:44 am

Dave, it just seems to be this car. Didn't have the problem with my Dodge truck. I think it just seems to take ages to pump fuel up. BUT, the carb should have sufficient fuel in it to fire the car straight off; it does when started every few days.
The car has had 3 different carbs and it make little difference. Run great. Just this lay off starting issue.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Nov 24, 14 11:03 am

The carb may be empty or nearly empty of fuel after a long stand.

I just remembered my start-up procedure if the Chally had stood for months.

I used to crank until I got pressure at the carb (gauge on carb inlet) without worrying about the engine actually starting and without touching the throttle.

Once I had pressure at the carb I would stop cranking. Let the battery rest for a moment. THEN pump the throttle twice and turn the key.

Started every time like that.

latil · Post by **latil** » Mon Nov 24, 14 11:03 am

It does seem to be a problem. It shows up with small garden equipment if fuel is left in for more than a month or so without a startup. The lighter volatiles in the fuel are evaporating off leaving a thicker less volatile tank of fuel.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Nov 24, 14 11:26 am

I fitted one of these non return valves Miles...it helps....

Another thing that really helped my starting is the HEI converskon if you havent already done it...

cheers Steve

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Nov 24, 14 12:18 pm

Not a problem I've had either, my cars always sit over the winter with fuel in the tank, no problems getting them to run in the spring.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Nov 24, 14 12:33 pm

Strange how it varies from car to car, non return valve seems smart and i'll try Dave's starting method.
Or just drive it even more often!

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Mon Nov 24, 14 3:37 pm

You sure its not something else thats causing the starting problems , such as the lifters all bleeding down whilst its being left, allowing compression to bleed off when trying to start for the first time Just a thought as you have changed all the fuel system tank, lines, pump and carb..

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Nov 24, 14 4:48 pm

Don't now Guy as the car starts (in regular use), runs perfectly although your idea is an interesting one. Would it not be clattering if all the lifters had drained down?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Nov 24, 14 4:50 pm

No issues on old fuel, as Duncan says, big pump shots solve a lot of problems.

The Bee can stand for weeks - 6 pumps (3 pump diaphragms!) turn ignition off separately - crank - 6 more pumps and activate ignition whilst cranking and away it goes.

Hots starts fine too.

Only problem I have is that the motor is slightly rich when warmed up, creating a unique little stumble on tick over, fine all the rest of the time and drives fine from cold.

I think the proof of the pudding is an egg cup full of fuel down the carb when the car has been standing and I bet it will cough / fire up straight away.

This was our process with the '62 Dart which stood for long periods of time - again as mentioned, I think the fuel drained back so by the time the pump had pulled the fuel up the motor was cranking slowly and was reluctant to start.

Mr Egg cup solved all that!!!!

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Nov 24, 14 6:22 pm

Pete, I think you have it. When I use the egg cup trick the car starts and then indeed has a wobbly idle for a few minutes before clearing and no further problems.
I don't know whether by get time I tip fuel into the carb the car is ready to go (having pumped up enough fuel from cranking) or the extra fuel tips in does the trick.
Guess I'll find out by not using the egg cup and see if I can pump it up and get her to go.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Nov 25, 14 9:29 am

Remember that it is the fumes that ignite. Not the wet fuel. So after tipping the fuel in wait a little for it to fill the intake with fumes.

Prothed · Post by **Prothed** » Wed Nov 26, 14 10:58 am

While I've never had a problem with poor running on the Charger (although it cranks for ages after standing for a month or more), I have a Suzuki GS1000 which coughs and splutters for miles after standing over the winter...
You can get 'pure' petrol with no ethanol or additives -
http://www.aspenfuel.co.uk/
which has good reviews (and it should be good at £4/l)
and you can still get old-fashioned leaded 4-star at a few petrol stations -
http://www.quillertriumph.co.uk/Quiller ... leaded.htm
again at an astronomic price (and I don't know how up-to-date the above link is).
So you can check out the bad fuel theory... Let us know.

db · Post by db » Wed Nov 26, 14 11:31 am

My mate just started his '97 Jeep last night after it was laid up, untouched, for 6 years.
Once he fooled the immobiliser into letting him start it, it fired instantly and idled smoothly without a hitch. So no, I don't think there's an issue with old fuel!