rebuild,initinal start up.

three counties · Post by **three counties** » Thu Dec 18, 14 4:47 pm

hi all,would like some information please,regarding starting my engine after a rebuild.will be picking up the engine on monday from the machine shop,they have rebuilt the block.its a 383 cu in,out of my 68 charger.has been rebored and the crankshaft has been reground,new camshaft and lifters,oil pump,ect.it is a stock engine,apart from changing it from a 2 barrel,to edelbrock 600 cfm.and a edelbrock inlet manifold.i will be fitting the heads on,ect.after i have fitted the block into the car.what i would like to find out is,the best way to prime the oil pump,and roughly how long to run the engine to seat the cam in and rings?or what speed to run the engine.also,what sort of oil is it best to use,and will it need any type of lube with this.also,not sure about setting the timeing on this,at the moment i have the oringinal distributer ,with points,which i am going to change very soon,if any one could help me with this please,many thanks,mick

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Dec 18, 14 5:09 pm

I am about 30 minutes away and have (made) a Priming tool to pre-oil the engine if you want to borrow it...nothing clever but it works OK.

You need to run the Cam in if it is an anything but a Roller Cam and that takes about 20 minutes so that will annoy the neighbours. It will get hot so make sure you can keep the motor cool during this process.

Personally, I would have built the motor complete and then dropped it in the hole.

I say this because you need to ensure that the lifters rotate freely and that is hard to see when it is in situ, if they are not they will eat the cam in 20 minutes!!!

Geof Hauser swears by Break in oil, which I used in the Bee, failing that use a mineral oil and then change the oil and filter pretty soon after.

USE BREAK IN ADDITIVE and COAT / SMOTHER the Lifters in it, i.e. Comp Cams Lube

I would always run a Zinc additive nowadays with modern oil.

I can help with ignition timing if required.

You need to ensure that EVERYTHING is good to go before you attempt the fire-up and you are fuel / coolant leak free. You do not want to have to turn the motor off during thr break in period. It really is pant-filling time.....

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Thu Dec 18, 14 5:36 pm

Hughes Engines advice here too

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/pro ... ar2010.pdf

Scooby · Post by **Scooby** » Thu Dec 18, 14 6:03 pm

Ask Anton on here he started up and run in a new engine for me..lots of things you need to be aware of, you only want to do this once.
Rich

shovelheadrob · Post by **shovelheadrob** » Thu Dec 18, 14 6:34 pm

I can only repeat what Pete has said, good break in lube for the cam, get the timing set & don't let it idle!

jaymin · Post by **jaymin** » Thu Dec 18, 14 7:19 pm

lube,lube and then lube can`t have to much, as said I use a priming tool and get that oil all round, biggest problem I have had is keep it cool but hotrods a crap at cooling

always good to have a mate round to keep that extra pair of eyes on it (and get the tea)

three counties · Post by **three counties** » Thu Dec 18, 14 7:53 pm

three counties wrote:hi all,would like some information please,regarding starting my engine after a rebuild.will be picking up the engine on monday from the machine shop,they have rebuilt the block.its a 383 cu in,out of my 68 charger.has been rebored and the crankshaft has been reground,new camshaft and lifters,oil pump,ect.it is a stock engine,apart from changing it from a 2 barrel,to edelbrock 600 cfm.and a edelbrock inlet manifold.i will be fitting the heads on,ect.after i have fitted the block into the car.what i would like to find out is,the best way to prime the oil pump,and roughly how long to run the engine to seat the cam in and rings?or what speed to run the engine.also,what sort of oil is it best to use,and will it need any type of lube with this.also,not sure about setting the timeing on this,at the moment i have the oringinal distributer ,with points,which i am going to change very soon,if any one could help me with this please,many thanks,mick

thanks for all the information on this,pete,thanks for offering to lend me your primeing tool,will get back to you,not sure what type of engine oil to get at the moment?will try and find out what other people use

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Thu Dec 18, 14 7:55 pm

I've always used Millers break in oil http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mille ... n-oil.aspx and then

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:01 pm

Drive it in low gear building up the revs and letting the engine break, by coming off the gas, do this for about 20mins increasing the revs each time, job done

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:04 pm

Interesting, I always did this statically...

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:07 pm

need to put load on the motor, do this after breaking in the cam( I generally use roller cams) this is what will seal up the rings

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:11 pm

AHH! I was just talking about cam break in, not rings, etc

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Dec 19, 14 9:58 am

fire extinguisher or at least the hose

it gets hot during break in and the last thing you want is a dripping carb and vapourised fuel flaoting about in a nice still garage near a sparking distributor cap.

don't do it in a garage attached to the house.....

check you have spark
prime the oil
open carb and fill the inlet with damp start/Ether

don't be tempted to wind up the idle mix too much just make it hotter and you will wash the bores and get no ring seal....(like me)

wind in a good bit of timing you are not going to drive it with this timeing its not under any load it just spinning at 2500 rpm so find a spot where it runs nice. just for this job

gotta get all the fuel burnt otherwise it heats up the exhuaust manifold to really glowing red which will spoil any coating

a dull red glow is not an issue but trying to avoid really hot is still better

don't knack the rings

nothing more dpresing than pulling down a nice fresh engine and doing it all again......

Dave

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Dec 19, 14 2:43 pm

Shouldn't have a problem with that Eddy carb. They run pretty much straight out of the box.
Have a helper on hand f you can.
I've broken 2 motors/cams in without drama.
Only drama was with the neighbours over the noise!

Change oil and filter when break in is done.

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Sun Dec 21, 14 3:14 pm

Real steel sell the comp cams break in oil additive and would defo recommend using it.

Mopar Muscle Association UK

rebuild,initinal start up.

rebuild,initinal start up.

Re: rebuild,initinal start up.