Well guys I bought the roadrunner from OctaneJunkie.
Just done 100 mile home from the ferry so can't be that bad... 😀 The drive gave me a good opportunity to see if there are any issues.
Needs a little tuning
Exhaust is super loud and seems to be off a bracket on the right side which is banging. I'll put the flowmasters on and sort that over the coming days.
But there is another noise I need a little advise on. There is a rattle on acceleration and its there when you maintain speed, it's sounds metallic with a slight screech from it. If I come off the throttle or depress the clutch it goes away. Sounds like it coming from the transmission area. Any pointers???
Got the new car couple of noises!!
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- Powermyster
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Got the new car couple of noises!!
Last edited by Powermyster on Thu Feb 12, 15 11:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Powermyster
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 14 2:37 pm
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
- Contact:
- Powermyster
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 14 2:37 pm
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
- Contact:
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I have the same car. Regarding the steering are you familiar with Mopars? If not you may not be aware that you can adjust the front alignment, the camber and castor.
These cars like negative camber, but come from the factory with positive camber which will cause some of the wandering you refer to. I'll post up later as I off to work now!
These cars like negative camber, but come from the factory with positive camber which will cause some of the wandering you refer to. I'll post up later as I off to work now!
- Powermyster
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- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 14 2:37 pm
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- Posts: 7309
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 05 8:40 pm
- Location: Cornwall
OK mate, no problem. id get a CD rom version of the Factory Service Manual as they are essential. Your car has certain unique features not related to most classic mopars. Primarily how you adjust camber/castor.
In your engine bay you have 2 covers on the inside of the inner wings. Remove the one on the passenger side and shine a torch through the gap.
You will see two big o'l nuts facing you. These adjust the camber and castor angles. The trick is to get a mate to help and jack the car up to free the road wheel. Those nuts attach to two long stud things which are in slots about 1" long or so.
Crack off both those nuts and what you are trying to achieve is to rotate the wheel so the rearmost nut/bolt slides out as you pull the wheel revealing the slot. At the same time you want the front stud to be pushed through the slot so it is as close to the inner wing as possible.
Essentially, you are angling the wheel so if viewed from above the front of the tyre is slightly angled in towards the inner wing and the rear edge is angled out.
If you're not clear, PM me and I can talk you through the principle.
Before you do any of that, ask the seller if he had an alignment done and if so, to what spec!
In your engine bay you have 2 covers on the inside of the inner wings. Remove the one on the passenger side and shine a torch through the gap.
You will see two big o'l nuts facing you. These adjust the camber and castor angles. The trick is to get a mate to help and jack the car up to free the road wheel. Those nuts attach to two long stud things which are in slots about 1" long or so.
Crack off both those nuts and what you are trying to achieve is to rotate the wheel so the rearmost nut/bolt slides out as you pull the wheel revealing the slot. At the same time you want the front stud to be pushed through the slot so it is as close to the inner wing as possible.
Essentially, you are angling the wheel so if viewed from above the front of the tyre is slightly angled in towards the inner wing and the rear edge is angled out.
If you're not clear, PM me and I can talk you through the principle.
Before you do any of that, ask the seller if he had an alignment done and if so, to what spec!
- Powermyster
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 14 2:37 pm
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
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