Here's what the Firm Feel website says:
"Firm Feel's new Fast Ratio Pitman Arms are forged similar to the T/A Challengers and AAR Cudas. This changes your stock steering into fast ratio steering. Your stock power steering ratio is 16:1, (3 1/2 turns lock to lock), with the fast ratio pitman arm your ratio is ~ 12:1, (2 3/4 turns lock to lock)."
Looking for Advice and/or Opinion on These Shocks
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The Ackerman Story
"Ackerman steering", and "the long idler arm"
The long, (FAST RATIO) pitman arm we offer is basically the same arm used on the AAR's and T/A's. The stock T/A set-up = long (FAST RATIO) pitman arm and a short (stock length) idler arm. We heard that screws up the Ackerman steering. So we put a car on turning plates to test that, and find out. Turning plates or toe plates lay underneath the front tires and read turning angle for each tire independently as you turn the steering wheel. Ackerman steering, means that as you turn the steering wheel, the inside tire turns about 3 or 4 degrees more than the outside tire so both tires are arching equally giving you ~ "zero scrub". We tested this in 3 different modes: First, short pitman and short idler (ie. Your car, stock), Second, long pitman and short idler (ie. T/A, AAR stock), Third, long pitman and long idler (recommended).
RESULTS: 1) short/short = OK ackerman throughout sweep. Result: 2)long/long = OK Ackerman thru out sweep. Result: 3)long/short = OK ackerman thru right hand sweep and OK ackerman up to about 20 degrees left. From ~20 degrees on out , the Ackerman gets exaggerated to ~10-12 degrees. We do not think this really adds up to very much in your overall performance driving picture, because 20 degrees is a pretty tight turn , more like a parking maneuver than anything else. But, why not get it as good as you can get it? Conclusion, If you can, use the long idler.
The Ackerman Story
"Ackerman steering", and "the long idler arm"
The long, (FAST RATIO) pitman arm we offer is basically the same arm used on the AAR's and T/A's. The stock T/A set-up = long (FAST RATIO) pitman arm and a short (stock length) idler arm. We heard that screws up the Ackerman steering. So we put a car on turning plates to test that, and find out. Turning plates or toe plates lay underneath the front tires and read turning angle for each tire independently as you turn the steering wheel. Ackerman steering, means that as you turn the steering wheel, the inside tire turns about 3 or 4 degrees more than the outside tire so both tires are arching equally giving you ~ "zero scrub". We tested this in 3 different modes: First, short pitman and short idler (ie. Your car, stock), Second, long pitman and short idler (ie. T/A, AAR stock), Third, long pitman and long idler (recommended).
RESULTS: 1) short/short = OK ackerman throughout sweep. Result: 2)long/long = OK Ackerman thru out sweep. Result: 3)long/short = OK ackerman thru right hand sweep and OK ackerman up to about 20 degrees left. From ~20 degrees on out , the Ackerman gets exaggerated to ~10-12 degrees. We do not think this really adds up to very much in your overall performance driving picture, because 20 degrees is a pretty tight turn , more like a parking maneuver than anything else. But, why not get it as good as you can get it? Conclusion, If you can, use the long idler.
- Dave-R
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Yes. I know. But when people used to talk about having a "fast ratio" box it was a 16:1 manual box. The normal ratio was much slower.Roger wrote:He means the longer pitman arm (and idler i guess).Dave wrote:Power steering IS "fast ratio". The manual cars are the ones that had more turns lock-to-lock.
I have used longer pitman an idler arms. Pain in the butt. Bananarama! the chassis on tight turns. You don't need that crap.
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
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Just to report. The Koni FSD shocks I just fitted to my Corvette are amazing. Only been for a couple of test drives around the houses so far but the difference from the Z51 gas shocks I had on before is incredible.
Corvettes (and many other sports cars designed for handling) are heavily criticized for their harsh suspension. But what a difference these shocks make.
I can no longer feel the very texture of the road surface. The ride is smooth as silk. It even feels like it has less rolling resistance somehow. Cornering seems just as good (but I have not been able to corner at very high speed yet) and the wheels just seem to be in constant contact with the road.
It is very confidence inspiring.
Worth the money? I would say yes.
Corvettes (and many other sports cars designed for handling) are heavily criticized for their harsh suspension. But what a difference these shocks make.
I can no longer feel the very texture of the road surface. The ride is smooth as silk. It even feels like it has less rolling resistance somehow. Cornering seems just as good (but I have not been able to corner at very high speed yet) and the wheels just seem to be in constant contact with the road.
It is very confidence inspiring.
Worth the money? I would say yes.
Yes, that too!Dave wrote:Roger wrote:He means the longer pitman arm (and idler i guess).Dave wrote:Power steering IS "fast ratio". The manual cars are the ones that had more turns lock-to-lock.
I have used longer pitman an idler arms. Pain in the butt. Bananarama! the chassis on tight turns. You don't need that crap.
I know what it says, but the right way would be a faster ratio box. The longer arm is at best, a bodge, albeit a factory bodge.Bilko wrote:Here's what the Firm Feel website says:
"Firm Feel's new Fast Ratio Pitman Arms are forged similar to the T/A Challengers and AAR Cudas. This changes your stock steering into fast ratio steering. Your stock power steering ratio is 16:1, (3 1/2 turns lock to lock), with the fast ratio pitman arm your ratio is ~ 12:1, (2 3/4 turns lock to lock)."
A modern steering rack does the exact reverse. It will be variable ratio, with the slowest part in the centre getting faster as you move away from centre. This is so its not overly sensitive in the middle. Idela most applications, though maybe not for a race car.
power box is closer to 15:1
16:1 manual box would b good in an A body with light engine
think it would be a pig in a B/E body better off with 20:1
standard manual box in big cars was 24:1 which is just silly
16:1 only availble in some darts and barrcudas in 68 69
hens teeth
firmfeel do a 16:1 ratio manual ballnut and screw. I have one its a better quality piece than the NOS 20:1 mopar/saginaw i have.
here is a 20:1 ratio manual ballnut NOS for £90
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301278343023? ... EBIDX%3AIT
ballnut is backwards for RHD...
turn it round and its suddenly a LHD ballnut.... the man selling it doesn't know this hence not 200 quid.
currently 2 or 3 power steering ballnut/valvey things on US ebay NOS
i have a brand new power steering sector shaft which i will never use
this is also bargain of the centuary
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-Steer ... ad&vxp=mtr
so if you wanted to rebuild ya box with brand spanky new stuff NOS parts are still availble if you look
bearing conversion for your idler arm is a good idea also.
dave
16:1 manual box would b good in an A body with light engine
think it would be a pig in a B/E body better off with 20:1
standard manual box in big cars was 24:1 which is just silly
16:1 only availble in some darts and barrcudas in 68 69
hens teeth
firmfeel do a 16:1 ratio manual ballnut and screw. I have one its a better quality piece than the NOS 20:1 mopar/saginaw i have.
here is a 20:1 ratio manual ballnut NOS for £90
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301278343023? ... EBIDX%3AIT
ballnut is backwards for RHD...
turn it round and its suddenly a LHD ballnut.... the man selling it doesn't know this hence not 200 quid.
currently 2 or 3 power steering ballnut/valvey things on US ebay NOS
i have a brand new power steering sector shaft which i will never use
this is also bargain of the centuary
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-Steer ... ad&vxp=mtr
so if you wanted to rebuild ya box with brand spanky new stuff NOS parts are still availble if you look
bearing conversion for your idler arm is a good idea also.
dave
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