Is there a recommended supplier for these in the UK or a particular brand to go for ? Or is it a case of the old ebay USA ?
Thanks
Fuel tank sender unit
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or pull it out and send it for a re wire at one of the smiths or VDO specialist that advertise in practical classics
they all use the same design, so it matters not that the sender is chrysler
if its structurally sound apart from broken wire on the "biscuit" it can be fixed
but are you sure its broken
usual issue is resistance in the wire from it to the guage,
or the earth strap from the outlet pipe on the sender, to the body has rusted. Its just an unprotetcted spring steel clip.
your tank isn't earthed, so the sender needs an earth to work. From factory on many cars it was a metal clip the went round the rubber pipe join between sender outlet and the steel pipe to the front of the car.
clamping a wire with a hose clamp to the outlet and running it to an eye under a bolt or screw on the body can fix you fuel guage problems
running a wire from the sender unit spade direct to the gauge avoiding the orginal is the way to prove if your orginnal wire is broken somehwere
the loom with it in runs via a connector behind the kick panel (break it clean it, put it back together after applying vasaline) along the sill inside the car then disappears and pops up in the boot, for the rear lights
and through a hole single wire to the tank.
belive your sender works on 5 volt regulated from the dash pod regulated supply
aussie cars run 12 volt
senders have a specific resistance
the send is just a variable resistor that changes resistance based on how far up the "biscuit" the contact is moved by the float.
Biscuit looks much like the inside of a scalextric controler, waxed fibre board with resistance wire wound round it which wears at the point where the longest "owning" previous owner maintained the petrol level usually mid tank.
only take the sender out if you are sure you have a quality seal to put it back in with. if you car aint popular you may find getting a seal is an expensive proposition
i'm lucky mine uses exact same as a 68 baracuda
ah just seen you have a 68-70 charger so you will have no problem, tis the mustang of mopar when it comes to parts, apart from bits of grill and trim
Dave
they all use the same design, so it matters not that the sender is chrysler
if its structurally sound apart from broken wire on the "biscuit" it can be fixed
but are you sure its broken
usual issue is resistance in the wire from it to the guage,
or the earth strap from the outlet pipe on the sender, to the body has rusted. Its just an unprotetcted spring steel clip.
your tank isn't earthed, so the sender needs an earth to work. From factory on many cars it was a metal clip the went round the rubber pipe join between sender outlet and the steel pipe to the front of the car.
clamping a wire with a hose clamp to the outlet and running it to an eye under a bolt or screw on the body can fix you fuel guage problems
running a wire from the sender unit spade direct to the gauge avoiding the orginal is the way to prove if your orginnal wire is broken somehwere
the loom with it in runs via a connector behind the kick panel (break it clean it, put it back together after applying vasaline) along the sill inside the car then disappears and pops up in the boot, for the rear lights
and through a hole single wire to the tank.
belive your sender works on 5 volt regulated from the dash pod regulated supply
aussie cars run 12 volt
senders have a specific resistance
the send is just a variable resistor that changes resistance based on how far up the "biscuit" the contact is moved by the float.
Biscuit looks much like the inside of a scalextric controler, waxed fibre board with resistance wire wound round it which wears at the point where the longest "owning" previous owner maintained the petrol level usually mid tank.
only take the sender out if you are sure you have a quality seal to put it back in with. if you car aint popular you may find getting a seal is an expensive proposition
i'm lucky mine uses exact same as a 68 baracuda
ah just seen you have a 68-70 charger so you will have no problem, tis the mustang of mopar when it comes to parts, apart from bits of grill and trim
Dave
Last edited by Dave999 on Thu Mar 19, 15 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I'm with Dave based on my own experience. Do check that earth at the tank end. I did as Dave sez, thick bit of wire clamped to the sender, then to the fuel pipe to the car and off to the chassis.
From memory, I think you can check your gauge. Turn ign on and earth out the blue sender wire from the fuel tank. It should earth out and make your fuel gauge read full. Only do this briefly just to check.!
The usual culprit is a voltage reducer on the back of the dash. When that fails you tend to get neither fuel or temp gauges working.
I had my dash out, connected two small AA batteries in series and then wired it to the gauge (gauge is out of car at this point) and sure enough the needle moved proving the gauge was sound.
From memory, I think you can check your gauge. Turn ign on and earth out the blue sender wire from the fuel tank. It should earth out and make your fuel gauge read full. Only do this briefly just to check.!
The usual culprit is a voltage reducer on the back of the dash. When that fails you tend to get neither fuel or temp gauges working.
I had my dash out, connected two small AA batteries in series and then wired it to the gauge (gauge is out of car at this point) and sure enough the needle moved proving the gauge was sound.
Last edited by MilesnMiles on Fri Mar 20, 15 7:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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