Timing Light

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Mar 19, 15 8:53 am

I don't remember ever having to knock a roll pin out on a Chrysler dizzy. As Blue said a Circlip in the top of the shaft pulls it all apart.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Thu Mar 19, 15 10:32 am

Nope no roll pin knockage required, you can do it all from the top, weld up slots, insert limit plate etc. The only reason you'd have to take the roll pin out would be to service the bearing or shim up the end play on the shaft. It's worth checking you don't have too much end play, 'cos that won't help timing accuracy either. Can't remember exacly what the end play should be you'll have to look it up, it's something in the region of 7 thou.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Thu Mar 19, 15 10:47 am

As Blue describes. I've done this job twice and the only hard part is that bastad circlip thing. I used two very small Allen keys to get it back in situ.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Mar 19, 15 11:22 am

i used a bit of pipe inner Diameter bigger the the ball end of the shaft outer dimeter smaller than the top of the dizzy
presses circlip on no bother (i just went to wikes and tried all their ally pipes in the misc hardward and angle section)

anyway the only roll pin you will see holds the reluctor star shaped thing in place and it is beyond tiny in roll pin terms

2 screw drivers over the edge of the body and under the reluctor and it will pri off no bother and the pin should stay in place in 1 part or the other.

next

if you yank off the rotor under it down the shaft is a felt pad
and below that is a circlip

put the felt pad back in before levering the the top bit off the shaft
the circlip will expand round the ball end of the inner shaft and the top bit comes off exposing the weights underneath

do not do this
1) with the felt pad out
2) as stated before, near a hedge. hedges are to circlips as a magnet is to iron filings.

Dave

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Thu Mar 19, 15 11:26 am

Dave999 wrote:i used a bit of pipe inner Diameter bigger the the ball end of the shaft outer dimeter smaller than the top of the dizzy
presses circlip on no bother (i just went to wikes and tried all their ally pipes in the misc hardward and angle section)

anyway the only roll pin you will see holds the reluctor star shaped thing in place and it is beyond tiny in roll pin terms

2 screw drivers over the edge of the body and under the reluctor and it will pri off no bother and the pin should stay in place in 1 part or the other.

next

if you yank off the rotor under it down the shaft is a felt pad
and below that is a circlip

put the felt pad back in before levering the the top bit off the shaft
the circlip will expand round the ball end of the inner shaft and the top bit comes off exposing the weights underneath

do not do this
1) with the felt pad out
2) as stated before, near a hedge. hedges are to circlips as a magnet is to iron filings.

Dave

You missed out

3) Gearbox box bell housings. They are to washers and bolts what hedges are to circlips.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Mar 19, 15 11:35 am

you speaketh the truth fine sir.

one thing to note on the dizzy front

chrysler dizzy in good nic is a good thing
MSD dizzy is a good thing

have heard it said that Mopar performance dizzy from mid 90s is rubbish

the advance weights are too light and flappy to provide consistent advance at any rpm other than full advance.

you need both of your springs

one has 2 coiled ends
the other has a coil 1 end and an elongated coil at the other

the idea being 2 phases to the advance curve
long end spring only comes in at the point where the first spring has stretched 1/8 to 1/4 of its distance

hence piles in advance off idle and slows it from 1500 to 3000 there abouts

you have a huge choice with the FBO set and can use a combo of new FBO springs and your old springs if necessary.

you may find the missng spring stuck in grease in the case under the advance mechanism.

Dave

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Thu Mar 19, 15 5:14 pm

I was onto Jon today, great to deal with very helpful. Kit is on the way to me already. He supplied me good images of how its stripped how the kit works.

May aswell get the kit to limit the advance rather that go through the error of refitting the old spring (if i can find it) and finding out it still bringing in too much advance.

I'll watch out for that circlip too

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Mon Mar 23, 15 10:11 pm

I'm hoping the kit arrives tomorrow as it didn't land today, so had a little look at the distributor tonight.

I noticed when I took the reluctor off and notice the roll pin appeared to have just missed the slot on the arm when it was sent home.

It's paired a little off the side as show in image, the reluctor must have been a couple degrees off. i presume this would be ok, just might show s little off on timing light.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Mar 23, 15 10:42 pm

Looks to me like that roll pin has sheared in half. It's what lines the reluctor up and should be longer than that.

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Mon Mar 23, 15 10:46 pm

The roll pin is out, what your seeing is where the pin missed the slot a little and cut into the steel. Pairing the edge of the metal if that makes sense

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Mar 24, 15 9:15 am

that might have been done deliberately

some dizzys have the relutor in a poor poistion and sombody might have deliberetly cut into the slot to allow it to move a few degrees

called reluctor/distributor phasing. necessary sometimes due to the fact that the dizzy was designed for a specific advance curve when we all ran nice 1960s petrol and in the modern age CR and cam tend to be changed for more performance. and also poor tolerances and quality control

given that we now need to put in 5-8 more dgrees initial and want a lot less machnaical advance in some dizzys the relutcor is tiggering the spark when the rotor tip is midway between 2 posts in the cap....misfire at certain rpm.

hence adjustmnet of the relutor position on the shaft is sometime necessary

most however would buy a reluctor with many slots and choose the one that give the best situation.

either way its probably not an issue

just clean up the orgoinal slot locktite the reluctor and pin when you put it back on. and push the pin in a bit further to engage with the orginal slot

Dave

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Tue Mar 24, 15 3:00 pm

Thanks Dave I was thinking of using a longer pin and engage original slot.

I didn't think that someone may have done that intentionally though. I'll have a look later. Hopefully the kit arrives and I cat put it all back together.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Mar 24, 15 5:04 pm

well that shaft should be rock-ard

i can't see how a weeny pin can do that

but..... 5 shreaded wheat or a bloody big press and anything possible.

Dave

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Tue Mar 24, 15 6:25 pm

No kit today 😔 hopefully be here tomorrow.

I have to run up for motor factors for something, might get plugs seen as they are pretty fouled up and I'm getting new cap and rotor. The plugs in her are NGK BP5S. I didn't see them listed for the 383 but seen a few people are using them. Any recommendations on plugs at is that another topic likely to start arguments and debates 😄

Powermyster · Post by **Powermyster** » Thu Mar 26, 15 6:26 pm

Kit arrived, the paperwork says use one stock spring withe on of the new springs. I thought I just put two of the new springs on??

Also there is a little brass coller with the springs but I don't see any mention of what that's for, any ideas