Gearbox removal

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 4:17 pm

I will soon be removing the 727 autobox from my 1972 Dart Swinger.
I will also be removing the engine, for some work/oil leaks.
Is It best /easier to remove the gear box first, and then the engine, or remove eng/box together, and split the 2 from there.
Engine has headers, and power steering.Look like the headers will have to stay behind ?

Any hints or tips ?

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat May 23, 15 7:27 pm

Personally I prefer to remove the box and then take out the engine. You can remove and refit In one piece as long as you can get the car up high enough and have a hoist that will lift high enough to get the engine at a steep angle over the front panel. If you do that, be sure to drain the box first or you'll have a real mess to clear up.
I don't like doing it that way because it's hard to do on your own and unless you have a proper engine tilter, swinging an engine about high up at that angle is a bit on the dodgy side.
I always cut the rad support on my cars and make it removable, that way with the grille removed you don't need to lift the engine anywhere near as high.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Sat May 23, 15 7:36 pm

I thought you had a ramp

Unbolt front subframe and lift car off

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 7:38 pm

I must admit, I think I would prefer to take the box out , and then the engine as you suggest, as I am always aware of safety issues with big heavy things,swinging about.
I'm not sure what you are calling the rad mount bit.
Just wan't sure what you seasoned Mopar gurus did or recommended

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 7:38 pm

autofetish wrote:I thought you had a ramp

Unbolt front subframe and lift car off

I do, would that be the best/easiest option ?
I hadn't thought of that

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 7:41 pm

Although I do need to move it into the corner of the barn,while I do the engine and box, so that might not work

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Sat May 23, 15 7:57 pm

Johnny, as blue said.

Split the box and bring out the engine on its own, much easier. It's a lot of long, heavy, swinging weight to contend with otherwise

The rad mod makes the front support panel, behind the front grill, removable. It gives you about a foot and a half less height to winch the engine up.

I've not done it on mine as my Clarke engine crane can lift it high enough.

There's something online about how and where to cut if you do the rad mod

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat May 23, 15 8:21 pm

If you look in the workshop thread on my Valiant you'll see where I cut the top of the rad support and made it bolt in.

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 8:52 pm

Dart Vader wrote:Johnny, as blue said.

Split the box and bring out the engine on its own, much easier. It's a lot of long, heavy, swinging weight to contend with otherwise

The rad mod makes the front support panel, behind the front grill, removable. It gives you about a foot and a half less height to winch the engine up.

I've not done it on mine as my Clarke engine crane can lift it high enough.

There's something online about how and where to cut if you do the rad mod

Thanks Will check out how high mine lifts

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sat May 23, 15 8:53 pm

Blue wrote:If you look in the workshop thread on my Valiant you'll see where I cut the top of the rad support and made it bolt in.

Cheers will check out the thread

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sat May 23, 15 9:26 pm

Blue wrote:If you look in the workshop thread on my Valiant you'll see where I cut the top of the rad support and made it bolt in.

Yep it's a really good idea, plus it's a good opportunity to brace the upper, & more importantly lower, rad support.
Believe it it not that's where a lot of front end flex can be massively reduced.

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Sun May 24, 15 7:41 pm

I always take the box out and use a piece of 18mm ply under the sump and steering link bar to stop the engine dropping back and hitting the firewall. I then remove the engine. I have done this loads of time on my own with no help. I then put the engine in first and put the gearbox in after. Very easy job. Box and engine out in about 90 minutes.

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sun May 24, 15 10:22 pm

ANTON wrote:I always take the box out and use a piece of 18mm ply under the sump and steering link bar to stop the engine dropping back and hitting the firewall. I then remove the engine. I have done this loads of time on my own with no help. I then put the engine in first and put the gearbox in after. Very easy job. Box and engine out in about 90 minutes.

Good tip, thanks Anton