Hi all,
So I had the Challenger out both Friday and Saturday for its inaugural runs, needless to say, although I thoroughly enjoyed my new car, I'm sure a "little wee came out" at one point - what a trip to drive, loved every minute of it.
Question however is this, I noticed that even after a good hour, she still seems to be running nice and cold according to the gauge - don't get me wrong, I don't WANT it to overheat, but it did pose the question as to whether the gauge is actually working. not actually sure whether it moved at all, may have but if it did, it wasn't far - obviously, if it's not, I could run the risk of not knowing that I'm about to overheat.
Is there a clever way of testing the gauge so I can be sure it's doing its job ?
I'm sure someone here has a trick up their sleeve,
Thanks in advance
Garp
Temp gauge test ?
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Temp gauge test ?
Aerodynamics are for people who can�t build engines
If it is electrical (many people fit after market mechanical gauges as they are more accurate / reliable) then if you take the connector off the sensor and then BRIEFLY short it out on the block with the ignition on, then you should get a full scale deflection...or as near as you can get on a stock set up.
The best way is to have someone in the car watching the gauge as you do it so you do not leave it earthed too long, just in case.
If this does not work then it is probably a dirty bulkhead connector plug or a bad joint or wiring fault - senders are pretty reliable but can play up but I think this is the least likely.
Good luck.
Pete
The best way is to have someone in the car watching the gauge as you do it so you do not leave it earthed too long, just in case.
If this does not work then it is probably a dirty bulkhead connector plug or a bad joint or wiring fault - senders are pretty reliable but can play up but I think this is the least likely.
Good luck.
Pete
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God
As Pete says.......I never trusted mine either.
Fitted a mech gauge and not looked back.
Fitted a mech gauge and not looked back.
Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
-
Super Sloth
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 15 6:46 pm
Hi Garp,
I think the way I would tackle installing a stand-alone gauge is to source an inline hose tail in the appropriate size for the internal bore of your top hose. You can then cut out a 1 inch section in the most convenient place to fit your hose tail.
You can buy them anodised in all sorts of colours or plain ally but for the purposes of illustration this is a 32mm unit in blue...
You'll then need the appropriate mechanical gauge. Having had a lot of British cars I'm pretty familiar with Smiths gauges so I'll put a link to one of these up
Smiths water temp gauge
You can also get dual water/oil gauges in case you were interested in keeping an eye on your oil pressure too. These are common in all chrome bumper and early rubber bumper 1800 MGB's so these dual function gauges can actually be found relatively cheaply.
Dual Smiths MGB gauge.
Not too sure what sort of oil pressure Mopar engines run at yet - I'm still waaaaaay down the learning curve when it comes to specifics, but if they are a low pressure high volume engine, smiths also made a slightly different gauge for the very rare MGB GT V8 models with the same water temp scale but a much reduced range for the oil pressure scale that tops out at 80 lbs/2" . These can be sourced from moss / brown and gammons / MGB hive / etc. etc... for around £110?
The other point to mention with the smiths gauges is that the threaded end for the probe is 5/8"UNC IIRC and those universal hose tails are likely to come with standard thread for electronic senders which tend to typically be 1/8NPT. No big deal as you can just drill and tap the hose tail to suit.
If you don't feel like cutting holes in your dashboard then you can get hold of a Basic universal 52mm gauge brackets or the universal pod type and mount it either slung underneath or on the top of the dash pad or wherever you're comfortable with.
Other than that, if you want to see the gauge at night, you'll need to wire up the backlighting to the light switch on the dash or the lighting circuit. Similarly, if you went for the dual water / oil gauge you'll need to fit an inline adapter to the oil pressure switch on the engine and wire that up too.
Hopefully there will be some other folk on soon with some better suggestions, but I thought I'd try and be helpful and share some ideas with you.
All the best,
Jon.
I think the way I would tackle installing a stand-alone gauge is to source an inline hose tail in the appropriate size for the internal bore of your top hose. You can then cut out a 1 inch section in the most convenient place to fit your hose tail.
You can buy them anodised in all sorts of colours or plain ally but for the purposes of illustration this is a 32mm unit in blue...
You'll then need the appropriate mechanical gauge. Having had a lot of British cars I'm pretty familiar with Smiths gauges so I'll put a link to one of these up
Smiths water temp gauge
You can also get dual water/oil gauges in case you were interested in keeping an eye on your oil pressure too. These are common in all chrome bumper and early rubber bumper 1800 MGB's so these dual function gauges can actually be found relatively cheaply.
Dual Smiths MGB gauge.
Not too sure what sort of oil pressure Mopar engines run at yet - I'm still waaaaaay down the learning curve when it comes to specifics, but if they are a low pressure high volume engine, smiths also made a slightly different gauge for the very rare MGB GT V8 models with the same water temp scale but a much reduced range for the oil pressure scale that tops out at 80 lbs/2" . These can be sourced from moss / brown and gammons / MGB hive / etc. etc... for around £110?
The other point to mention with the smiths gauges is that the threaded end for the probe is 5/8"UNC IIRC and those universal hose tails are likely to come with standard thread for electronic senders which tend to typically be 1/8NPT. No big deal as you can just drill and tap the hose tail to suit.
If you don't feel like cutting holes in your dashboard then you can get hold of a Basic universal 52mm gauge brackets or the universal pod type and mount it either slung underneath or on the top of the dash pad or wherever you're comfortable with.
Other than that, if you want to see the gauge at night, you'll need to wire up the backlighting to the light switch on the dash or the lighting circuit. Similarly, if you went for the dual water / oil gauge you'll need to fit an inline adapter to the oil pressure switch on the engine and wire that up too.
Hopefully there will be some other folk on soon with some better suggestions, but I thought I'd try and be helpful and share some ideas with you.
All the best,
Jon.
-Jon.
I'd guess that indicates that it IS working - if it does nothing, that's not good68Runner wrote:Got a similar problem on my 68 Satellte
I can Earth the wiring and the gauge pings across to the other side. I replaced the sender and it still does the same thing.
Any thoughts???
Aerodynamics are for people who can�t build engines
Wire from gauge to sender is new?