Shagged my trans, help please!

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 21, 15 6:35 pm

I still have not got on with my 727 rebuild yet

but I do need to soon.
What would be best , to build it with a better drum , or get a blanket or cover,
or just learn how to use it properly

I won't be drag racing it ,just street, but I am a bit lead foot

apologies for semi Hi Jack

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Dec 21, 15 7:04 pm

As ever it comes down to how much you want to spend. I've been reading up about the Coan super sprag Today. It's a billet bolt in item which has more springs and rollers than the standard design and will be much more resistant to failure, at under 200 bucks it's affordable insurance. A billet steel front drum is a £500 item, and in my opinion overkill for anything other than an all out race application. As I've said before 727's can explode catastrophically, but it's rare unless you abuse the first gear rule.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Dec 21, 15 7:56 pm

Well it's been a useful thread, so thanks to everyone for their input. I'll be changing my driving habits a bit, but older and wiser now.
I hope

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 21, 15 8:05 pm

Blue, I think I'll learn how to use a 727
Miles , are you going to attempt the gearbox repair yourself ?

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 21, 15 8:08 pm

stupid question , would you need a line lock, to the front brakes , to hold a 2nd gear burn out ? I dont think my car will spin up the wheels from a standing start in 2nd, its not powerful enough yet .

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Dec 21, 15 8:13 pm

You need to hold the car still somehow without the rear brakes applied to get the rear wheels spinning up. Locking the fronts on with a momentary switch is much safer than locking the rears off.

A good stout BB with low gears in the back will light the tyres up due to the torque and torque multiplication of, say, 4.10's; but I do not think a SB will.

Julie's old Dart would do rolling burnouts on 325 Hoosiers on a shift from 2nd to 3rd at 70mph...........

db · Post by db » Mon Dec 21, 15 10:45 pm

Hey, bad luck there Miles. I guess whether we want to or not, all we ever do is look for the weakest link!
Hope you get it sorted and suitably beefed up.

Remind me again why a 4-speed is called a parts-breaker?

mad machs · Post by **mad machs** » Tue Dec 22, 15 8:42 am

Coulda been worse...

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Dec 22, 15 8:45 am

Time I've pulled it out Mike it wil look like that

Cool hat.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Dec 22, 15 8:47 am

Looks like an old picture of a dead drop to me.

latil · Post by **latil** » Tue Dec 22, 15 8:49 am

That's a real oildown

Not the 2 drips that Santa Pod take 1/2 hour to mop up

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Dec 22, 15 8:56 am

The Pod are great!

Shakey, on the other hand.......mind you that is one less thing we will have to worry about soon

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Dec 22, 15 12:14 pm

Pete wrote:Looks like an old picture of a dead drop to me.

Ron Mancini way back in '64, last of the legal neutral drops, NHRA banned such craziness after that little episode and quite right too.

Birdman · Post by **Birdman** » Tue Dec 22, 15 12:25 pm

Blue wrote:A&A are pretty pricey for parts. I always dealt with John Cope at CRT, easy to deal with and a good website, plus he's been specialising in Torqueflites for donkeys years. It is also worth noting that on the standard transmission, the low band is not applied when you select drive, it is only applied if you select manual low (1) or reverse.

Miles, I got my bolt in sprag, reverse pattern manual valve body etc from CRT. Good luck with the rebuild. Chris

db · Post by db » Wed Dec 23, 15 12:11 am

Dead drop?