Worried gear box install...................!

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Mon Jan 04, 16 1:41 pm

Happy New Year Guys!!!
Put the new gearbox in (A833) in the roadrunner new years day, measured everything up....seemed okay, tried 2 pilot bushings (even after freezing them) couldn't get them to fit so used the pilot roller bearing route, new clutch in to suit the 18 spline etc. bell housing on etc. Slid the gearbox in fine up to the last 12-15mm and could I Fuc**ers get the last bit to slide in at all. After a while and loss of patience I had a couple of threads started so worked round it pulling it in until it was tight up......now, is there a way of checking this is good before I fire it up? The last bit of pulling it in with the bolts has now got me worried!!!!!! By the way this is the first time I've had a go at this!! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Jan 04, 16 2:29 pm

I think you have to cut the end of the input shaft down if you use that pilot bearing. I don't think the crank is drilled far enough if it's from an engine that was used with an auto box.

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Mon Jan 04, 16 2:39 pm

It had an old 23 spline 4 speed in when I got it, was cheaper to replace the whole lot than repair it so went for the hemi box, measured up okay for depth before I started.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Mon Jan 04, 16 2:52 pm

It should be ok then. I'd be tempted to loosen the 4 bolts that bolt the box to the bellhousing about 1/2" and check that the box slides in and out ok. If the box comes away from the bellhousing when you loosen the bolts you know something is not right.

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Mon Jan 04, 16 3:01 pm

Thanks Mick, I'll give it a try but don't think it will come away as I loosen it as I had to tighten the bolts up to draw it in the last bit.....?

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Mon Jan 04, 16 3:21 pm

HI Nobby

do as mick said slack off the box to bell housing bolts and see if it wants to jump back- under pressure if not try sliding it in out of the clutch about an inch see if it eases up the last thing you want is it being dragged round by the input bearing you wont get gears,,,

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Mon Jan 04, 16 3:27 pm

Ahhh now I get you! Sounds good, will give it a go when I get back this weekend . Thanks guys well appreciated!

shovelheadrob · Post by **shovelheadrob** » Mon Jan 04, 16 4:20 pm

I'd be inclined to pull it right out again to check that the pilot bearing is not damaged or pushed too far into the crankshaft. Also when refitting IIRC you can leave the clutch cover bolts loose to allow everything to line up as you slide the transmission in, then torque up the cover bolts before fitting the lower cover. Not possible with an aftermarket scattershield.

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Mon Jan 04, 16 5:00 pm

Thanks Rob cracking idea.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Jan 05, 16 11:43 am

when its out again

check and see of the ends of the spline in the centre are burred over

I had problems with mine

the triangular end to every spline on my none standard plate are machined- dished in to aid with installation over the taper of the end of the input shaft up to the splined section

trouble was the dishing was exactly the same angle as the taper to the none splined section of the input shaft

unless I was bang on spline peak on shaft to spline valley in centre of plate. it just jammed
any force then just caused burrs

I spent 2 weekends trying to get the box in

eventually I took it out and with a triangular file gently relived the end of each spline in the centre so that the ends no longer looked like a bit of Toblerone.

I ended up taking the hard sides off each triangular end by a few thou to encourage movement 1 way or another if the splines didn't align bang on.

and it went in on second attempt no bother (i.e in, no good, backup turn engine over a few degrees in, in like Flynn

on my car a standard clutch plate has a very hard centre splined section, cone-ed ends to each spline and very little dishing.

its practically like tool steel

on my aftermarket centre the splined section is much softer
the ends of the splines are flat triangles which are dished in towards the centre

there will be some material property of this softer stuff that is of use in a higher spec centre, I'm sure.
I just haven't work out what

the dishing and spline end shape are probably applicable to the input shaft on some v8 ford or Holden which is where the component parts of the centre and cover plate came form before being re-worked for my mopar it all came out of the Exedy clutch parts bin but was built for mopar hemi 6 and small block applications. up to 350 ftlb (little in comparison to yours)

either way in my opinion its a job that is easy or awful and never in-between.

while its all out its worth doing the z bar bushes and rubber z bar tube seals
pack with grease

Dave

Nobbys-nails · Post by **Nobbys-nails** » Tue Jan 05, 16 1:40 pm

Cheers Dave! Would have never thought of checking that......! I already picked up a z bar service kit from Brewer's when I ordered the gear box. Thanks for the advice