Too many volts.

Ian Deady · Post by **Ian Deady** » Tue Apr 12, 16 8:35 pm

Hi, I have suffered with poor hot running since day one with my Charger.
Other jobs have meant I've not been able to use it often, but I'm coming to the end of those. On the last run, I think the voltage regulator played up. Much of the electrics stopped working & fuses blew.

I checked the battery voltage at tick-over, and at 1500rpm. It went from 12.5v to 17v+. Increasing with revs, ammeter pegged out as well.

I changed the voltage regulator (& ballast resistor), re-checked voltage. It now ranges from 12.5v to 14.95v, still a bit high, although it goes no higher with increased revs. Any ideas what the problem could be?
The ammeter is steady now, showing a small charge. (The car seems to be running well, is it safe to drive)?

Many thanks

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Apr 12, 16 9:09 pm

Hi Ian, that does not sound too out of the way, if the battery was discharged it may peak a little higher, when the battery is fully charged the peak voltage may be nearer to 14.5 volts.

How's the Transmission case?

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Tue Apr 12, 16 9:15 pm

Most Voltage regs will cap output at 14.88v so yours is where it should be now.

Reason, most probably earthing. My overcharging issues, 18v under load, were due to burnet out wires at crap wire crimps leading to arching and fooling the VR. So check the charging loop if problems persist.

Finally............dump the ammeter and do the ammeter bypass. Its a known weakpoint and has led to dash fires on old wiring, as the Mopar setup puts all the power through the ammeter loop. Search for the MAD bypass on here........been discussed many times.

If originality is your thing, some people have managed to sub out the ammeter for a volt meter in the dash.......keeps it looking stock, with the added benefit of the above.

Ian Deady · Post by **Ian Deady** » Tue Apr 12, 16 9:18 pm

The trans case will need to be welded to give additional support to the starter. Luckily, I've got both bolts and the "location peg" intact on the new mini-starter. As it starts on the button so I don't have to crank it for more than a second.
I managed to get all of the ally and brass bearing out of the bell-housing by removing the inspection plate. Ring gear teeth looked fine.

Ian Deady · Post by **Ian Deady** » Tue Apr 12, 16 9:22 pm

I shall take it out tommorow for a longer run and check the voltage at various stages. If it drops to 14.5 or less, I guess it's good to go.

Definitely going to dump the ammeter and get an aftermarket volt meter. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Tue Apr 12, 16 9:26 pm

Ian Deady wrote:I shall take it out tommorow for a longer run and check the voltage at various stages. If it drops to 14.5 or less, I guess it's good to go.

Definitely going to dump the ammeter and get an aftermarket volt meter. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Added benefit is that the volt meter will give you a live reading......so you'll know if it's running too low and not charging or too high and overcharging. My 18v melted the gel pack on the back of the ignition box.......would have eventually fried the car I've no doubt.

Now I look down an get piece of mind even when cruising at 60......