Clearance between convert or and flex plate concern

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Apr 16, 16 11:59 am

I'm in the process of bolting the 4 flex plate to converter bolts and I have a problem I think
Whilst doing each bolt in rotation it's as if I'm having to draw the converter forward with the bolts to close the gap. Once tight I then backed one bolt right out and I can slip a cable tie thru the bolt hole and between the plate and converter

Haven't had this before
I've read that quality converters have tighter spline tolerances which may be a factor
Should I be concerned?
Cos I am

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Apr 16, 16 12:06 pm

No.

Just put them in and almost snug them up and back off a tiny bit to help the next bolt engage into the thread so you do not cross thread one - that will really put a crimp in your day.

As you tighten the first one up it will draw the convertor forwards - this is correct.

If you do not seat the first bolt sufficiently it will hit a casting on the rear of the block (it does on a BB anyway) and you will not be able to rotate the crank. Then you will swear a lot and have to wind it all backwards.

Once you have proved all 4 bolts have engaged, I then take them out one at a time in sequence and loctite the bolts, and then torque them down.

You may find you have insufficient space to get a torque wrench in between the sump and flex plate. If that is the case then just do them FT.

Polish spanners and make a brew.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Apr 16, 16 12:11 pm

PS: I use the 3/4" head ARP Bolts so my "FT" may be more "FT" than your "FT" if you are using the piddling little stock bolts.

They strip as soon as look at you.

I know....

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Apr 16, 16 12:16 pm

Thanks Pete, I'm doing it exactly as you describe. Bit by bit and rotating
Also using the big ARP bolts too
So basically now they're all snug and square, take em out, loctite and be done?
Not had this with the old stockers, but also never, had a quality converter before