Ball joint splitter

[Bryan]

Any suggestions which is the better type?

[Blue]

Yep, 2 decent sized hammers usually if you don't want t split the gaiters.

[mad machs]

As above.

Avoid 'The Fork Tailed Devil' type if you want to use the joint again.



If I'm having a refined moment I use this sort of trade-

[Dart Vader]

Hammers work for me

One in each hand. Whack the joint on both sides at the same time

Strangely satisfying when it pops. Keep a nut lose on the thread to stop the joint flying out or you hitting the threads

[Dave999]

Just done a front end re build over the weekend and I still have all of my fingers

The bottom one in mikes post is better.

works with ball-joints and track rode ends

Track rod ends less well it will rip the seal. two hammers better

ball joints, you can fit it after you have pushed smaller end of the seal up a bit... but you might not need it

upper ball-joint

jack car

let the suspension hang down

undo ball-joint nut 2 turns

hit steering knuckle taper with the Big Hammer. it will come out of its own accord. don't take off nut the suspension will have you hand off just leave it for the time being

try similar with bottom joint This usually works. the force of the suspension spring helps

if that doesn't work

undo torsion bar adjuster to Un tension the spring
THEN
undo steering knuckle to lower ball-joint bolts

undo upper joint nut while supporting the Knuckle and hub

put disk/hub brake and knuckle on strategically placed box so you don't tension the brake hose

pry up the seal so the forked end doesn't rip it

welly the splitter thing on from the end of the lower arm, perpendicular to side of car
(for bottom ball joints the steering knuckle needs to come off the joint).

do it up moderately tight

then hit the bit round the taper with a BFH.
if no luck do the splitter up a bit tighter and repeat


cross link pitman and idler

take the lot off complete with track rod ends still on, loosen all nuts

lay the joint taper onto a rock, the end of a masons hammer, your vice or one of you panel beating tools.
smack it with a BFH. leave nuts on so the bit doesn't nick off under the nearest hedge.

Lower shock bolts

undo nut
wind it off so that the end of the bolt is 1 thread down

really really whack it with a BFH to break the taper of the bolt in the sleeve.

doing this with the lower arm on the ground rather than on the car is easier
but I did both ways

this just revives the self locking nature of the nut special nuts for clearance, Bolt faces forward, nut to front

reassembly may also involve hammers and a crow bar to splay upper arm mounts a tad. but smaller hammers and more sympathy.


Dave