Bulkhead connector issue.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sat Jun 25, 16 10:36 pm

I have pulled my bulkhead connector and found two connections that are getting hot! One on the middle plug and the bottom left on the bottom plug. Can anyone tell me what these two wires are for? Are either related to ignition that may have caused my loss of spark?

Next is there is obviously an issue here, what is my next step regards the bulkhead connector?

In this pic, left plug is top. Right plug is bottom one

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sat Jun 25, 16 10:36 pm

I'm just looking at the living diagram in the service book. If I have it the right way round, the very bottom left connection is "Z" wire A1B which goes to the batt connection on the starter relay?

Then the one in the middle block, bottom row, 2nd in from left which is the worst burnt out one is connection "P" wire R6 which goes to the batt side of the alternator.

I obviously need to address these issues and would like help/info on what to do. But also it looks as though connection P links to connection Q? Which goes to the ballast resists and then the coil. So could this melty mess be the cause of my backfire the other day? And the start of a bigger issue?

If so what do I need to do next?

latil · Post by **latil** » Sat Jun 25, 16 11:02 pm

Time to bypass the bulkhead connector before you get a bonfire.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sat Jun 25, 16 11:09 pm

How's best to do that?

latil · Post by **latil** » Sat Jun 25, 16 11:41 pm

Read

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... tor+bypass

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sat Jun 25, 16 11:55 pm

Thanks, need to get my head round it all!

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sun Jun 26, 16 12:27 am

Looking at the bits needed, I'm struggling with the Ford alternator fusible link?

latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Jun 26, 16 9:47 am

I can't see any on uk ebay,plenty on us ebay.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sun Jun 26, 16 2:06 pm

Been having a look at the wiring from bulkhead to under dash, the red "Z" wire although looks bad at the connector seems ok straight after.

The black "P" wire on the other hand looks very bad! I've traced it to near the ash tray and it's pretty melted!

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 27, 16 12:00 pm

1) Get the madelectrical work done ASAP. The full force of the ignition system runs through than connector which was designed to last 5years - not 50. It makes things catch fire.

2) The fusible link make and brand is less important than the grade. You can get fusible link wires on ebay or even a fusible carrier with a fuse. The links are designed to last a small amount of time but ultimately be the first point of failure - slightly less binary than a fuse carrier.

3) You should really replace that piece of under-dash wire given the state of it. Again, the madelectrical link shows you how to run the powerfeed. Once there is no ignition load the current is WAYYyy less anyway.

Its not that bad a job - the thinking about it is worse than the doing. I actually ended up doing a 'hybrid' job - where I continued to use the bulkhead connector for interior feeds but ignition straight off the relay with appropriate fusible links - but my bulkhead connector wasnt showing any signs of bad things. You will need to run a new wire.

PS - Might be worth checking the feed out from alternator just to make sure you are not overcharging or whatever the term is. Too much current makes things get hot...

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Mon Jun 27, 16 1:00 pm

Thanks Morgan. I have a 10mm 70A rated multi strand cable ready to go from alternator to starter relay. I've ordered smaller cable to repair/replace the cables going through bulkhead. The only thing I don't have is the fuseable links. Looking at the MAD site they are for short circuit protection, so a fuse holder should do the same job?

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 27, 16 1:20 pm

Fusible links -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16G-CHRYLSER-MO ... 2237804077

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bussmann-BP-FL- ... 2019856038

I think I used this - (a 14 and a 16)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-14-Gaug ... 2028825083

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Mon Jun 27, 16 2:16 pm

If I replace the link with a fuse holder and fuse, will that give the same protection? I see the links say 12G or 14G but can't see what amps they protect to? How do they work? Is it if there is a short circuit the wire inside blows to break the circuit?

One other thing, on Stevos description following the MAD guide, they spliced the black and red wires going to the ammeter together just after leaving the starter relay. Why not connect these together at the relay?

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Jun 27, 16 3:18 pm

I used a conventional fuse in a well protected fuse holder. It never blew.
Lucky not to have had that lot go up in smoke. Glad you found the problem in time.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Mon Jun 27, 16 4:42 pm

Ok. If my alternator power is now going straight to the starter relay, what kind of power will now be going through the bulkhead on the red and black cables? So I can get the right fuse.