Diff oil change, metalic bits

Pete.S · Post by **Pete.S** » Thu Jul 21, 16 9:40 pm

That is factory clearance for the ring gear. If the ring gear was touching and caused it the machine (or direction of groves) would be in the same direction the ring gear travels...

In theory yes your spring perches should be square.

But this if real world building.

fitting big tyres on a body shell built in the 60,s.. The body are not square..

Tweaks here and there are done for a best fit of the tyres to the body...

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Thu Jul 21, 16 9:45 pm

Thanks Pete, just lots of questions as I'm looking at it all, as it comes to bits.
changing the springs in the future won't throw it all out will it?

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Fri Jul 22, 16 7:12 am

these cars are so out of square when you relocate the axle perches you bolt it all up with out welding the perches and put the wheels on and then center the axle and most of the time the perches are in different place on the axle. As long as the axle is in the center of the car that is important.
Factory banjo welding and clearance is very poor. Have often cut myself cleaning an axle out.

Don't ever look at the quality of the welding on a pinion snubber reinforcement plate. Its a joke.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Jul 22, 16 8:21 am

I completely agree, Anton.

On my Barracuda the body was over 2" out of square from one side of the car to the other. I had to cut the arch back on one side for tyre clearance and on the other there was plenty.

On my superb, shiny '68 Dart the inner wheel houses were miles out. On one side with a set of wide tyres the tyre touched the inner wheel housing whilst on the other side it touched the Quarter panel Lip.

We have seen axles off-set, which is not the end of the world, to others that have been installed crooked, i.e. not square to the chassis by up to 32mm difference in wheelbase length from side to side.

They were cheap, nasty cars that were hammered together using low technology methods by indifferent staff and management practices.
It's a wonder that any of them have survived.

I will say one thing, they ain't no Ferrari when it comes to build precision.

However, they can still put a big smile on your face when it eventually all comes together.

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Jul 22, 16 9:18 am

Still better quality than most Fords or Chevys of the era

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Jul 22, 16 9:19 am

Gawd help em!!

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Fri Jul 22, 16 9:20 am

Thanks guys, I'm just going along spotting things as it comes to bits... It is all making sense.

I'm probably going to replace the springs while the diff is out (39KG?!?!1!)

I didn't want to buy new leafs only to find they throw everything out.

Thanks!

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Jul 22, 16 1:58 pm

the cone that is bottoming out

get the end machined down a few thou just the depth of the taper into its spline.

gives you a bit more life. but make usre you can get it on the half shaft before you start building it all up.

when you assemble
put shim between the cone and side gear until the spider gear shaft just seats fully in the case

that way you have done what many say you shouldn't.....but don't listen to them..... at least your spider gears sit in the right place because the side gear position is maintained.

most say you can't rebuild a cone centre.
And it is true with the auburn style where the cone and side gear are 1 single piece.
You can with these proper BorgWarner versions.
60% of the Australian ones built in this way came shimmed when brand new.
I really don't see an issue with it provided you don't take so much off the cone as to decrease its thickness so much as to make it damage the spline on the axle when under load

good for another 40 thousand miles or approx. 5 1/2 burnouts

the cone diffs were the only style that actually helped with street driving on greasy surfaces the rest were too harsh.

its a separated cone slip resistant diff

http://www.spiceraxle.com.au/products.htm

BorgWarner Separated cone SRD rebuild i.e how to fix worn out cones

http://www.geocities.ws/luckyducky_9670 ... 0Nov04.pdf

Dave

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Jul 22, 16 2:03 pm

if you want to do burnouts and don't care how long it lasts

over shim both sides to load it up from the get-go

it will wear out eventually....

but last long enough to have some fun

Dave

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Jul 22, 16 2:05 pm

Oh

just seen steves link

on cone repair

i'll get me coat

Dave

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Fri Jul 22, 16 2:49 pm

Thanks Dave, I am going to use the parts in another casing, at a later date.

Going to get one of these truetrack devices installed first though, are you at Mopars?