stud removal

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Mon Nov 28, 16 9:11 am

Hi All,

Was removing a header over the weekend to investigate a leaking gasket and for some reason a bolt was used on one of them instead of studs as the others are. Undone the nuts on the others and sure enough the head duly snapped of the bolt! (It's the front most one on the pass side)

Pulled the header back and I've about 6 to 8mm of the bolt proud of the surface.
Can an anybody recommend a removal tool the get it out.

Cheers

DaveBishop · Post by **DaveBishop** » Mon Nov 28, 16 9:46 am

You probably would have a stud on the rear because the stud goes into the water jacket and a bolt might not seal as good as a stud. Other than a stud remover i have put a nut on the remaining bit of stud and spot welded it but it don't always work sorry if this has been no help

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Nov 28, 16 11:23 am

If it's in tight enough to snap the bolt head off, I doubt any other method than cutting it off square and drilling it out is going to work.

Prothed · Post by **Prothed** » Mon Nov 28, 16 12:04 pm

I have had luck with welding a nut to the broken bolt and easing it back and forth . Plus penetrating oil. I think the heat from the weld helps break the seal.
Otherwise you have to drill it out but that's a pain because you have to keep the drill square to the surface...

andyrob · Post by **andyrob** » Mon Nov 28, 16 12:34 pm

I tried all the above methods when I had a snapped bolt on my roadrunner, ended up having to take the head off and having the snapped bolt spark eroded out...............
having said that welding onto the snaped stud is normally the best idea to try first, if you can get in

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Mon Nov 28, 16 1:34 pm

Thank's chaps

I'll try and see if I can weld a nut on, and if that fails try to drill it out as suggested.

While I'm on the subject I wouldn't mind pulling the header out altogether as I need to 'massage' a bit more clearance for the tranny. The car is not jacked up and can't see how to get it out from the top side and the torsion bar is in the way from beneath. Any help/guidance would be appreciated.
(383 68 charger).

Cheers

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Nov 28, 16 2:01 pm

You may have to pull the torsion bar (a mare unless you have the right tool).

The car needs to be about 3 foot in the air to get the headers to clear, plus undo the engine mount(s)....

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Nov 28, 16 4:22 pm

Normal street headers will come out with the mount off and the engine jacked over to one side. As Pete says you do need the car up high as the header will need to be almost vertical at times to fiddle it around stuff. Big tube long primary race headers are a whole other ball game but I assume that's not what we are dealing with here.

68Roadrunner · Post by **68Roadrunner** » Mon Nov 28, 16 8:41 pm

I have removed broken studs even when they are flush with the head, place a decent washer over the stud, weld through the center, then weld a nut on, warm around the stud, work it gently. having said that a lot easier when the head is off. Richard.

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Tue Nov 29, 16 1:00 pm

I managed to get a nut on the remainder of the bolt and welded a nut to it,
put the socket on and bingo it came out. I cranked my little MIG up to full power and the
whole thing glowed red which i think helped break the 'seal'. Just got the leaking coolant to sort now!

I need to get some replacement studs are they all pretty much the same quality.
What sealer should i use on the new stud thread.

Headers are Headmans (78030's), installed by previous owner a
good 25 years ago. Was looking to splash out on a set of Doug's or TTI's, i'll have to check the budget first.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Nov 29, 16 1:17 pm

Regular silicone will work as a sealer. I assumed you'd have hedmans or similar, they are about the only headers where you can retain the studs. Both tti and Dougs will require the studs to be replaced with bolts, the fit is very close with virtually no wiggle room.

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Tue Nov 29, 16 1:31 pm

Blue,

If I went for the other headers (Doug's or TTI) do they do longer studs for them as I'm thinking if I had bolts and had to nip them up for any reason it would break the sealing compound and leak.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Nov 29, 16 1:41 pm

You want ARP bolts with TTI's. Studs will not fit. End of.

ARP do some very small (3/8" or 7/16" inch spanner size) bolts to clear the header tube.

Garp · Post by **Garp** » Tue Nov 29, 16 3:20 pm

Oh, yummy ...... Was planning on removing header to install new mini-starter motor but after reading this my just give it a miss !!!
Why can stuff just be simple and uncomplicated ?

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Nov 29, 16 4:52 pm

The only way you could use studs would be to fit the header first with bolts then change the bolts for studs, not a great idea. There just isn't physically enough room to get the header into the car with studs in place. I've never found bolts start leaking if you have to nip them up.