oils ?
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oils ?
should I use the semi synthetic 10-40 available at Halfrauds in my 318 ? not sure whats in it at the mo,need to top up a tad but intend to do oil and filter change later. I used Millers in my Stovebolt C...y seemed to work ok. I also want to change oil & filter in the transmission (TF)
When my head gaskets were done, the bloke put Kendall GT1 20/50 in the duster, is it a good idea to go with an additive as well as that then? What would be a good one? and would i just pour it right in with the oil, or is it not worth doing now the engine has been run a few times now?Pete wrote:Kendall 20/50 is good, but I still use a Zinc additive as well in a non-roller cam motor...
- theseoldcars
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I use 10w40 semi-synth in my 440. Top end gets lubricated through the rocker shafts and I think particularly thick oil has a negative effect in that respect. Soaks up power and can stress the pump drive, too. Flip side is that I've seen plenty run 20w50 for ages with no ill effect. Swings and roundabouts.
I do add some zinc additive, though, just to help preserve the valvetrain.
My engine doesn't mind the thinner stuff, though; it's quiet, no chatter at startup, holds good pressures and temps, doesn't burn any or leak - and everything's nice and clean. Read reports where some have changed to 20w50 and it's got noisier, seemed more hesitant, rattled a bit until the oil's got thin enough to get up the top end, etc.
10w30 was the original spec, IIRC. Consider how far oil has come on, too, in terms of detergents and stabilisation. If you get 10psi per 1000rpm and have 20psi+ at hot idle, at least, you're in business.
Do get a proper filter, though, makes a big difference - I use Wix filters, usually, but have got a K&N (yea, the one with the welded-on nut on the end) to try next time around.
I do add some zinc additive, though, just to help preserve the valvetrain.
My engine doesn't mind the thinner stuff, though; it's quiet, no chatter at startup, holds good pressures and temps, doesn't burn any or leak - and everything's nice and clean. Read reports where some have changed to 20w50 and it's got noisier, seemed more hesitant, rattled a bit until the oil's got thin enough to get up the top end, etc.
10w30 was the original spec, IIRC. Consider how far oil has come on, too, in terms of detergents and stabilisation. If you get 10psi per 1000rpm and have 20psi+ at hot idle, at least, you're in business.
Do get a proper filter, though, makes a big difference - I use Wix filters, usually, but have got a K&N (yea, the one with the welded-on nut on the end) to try next time around.
my new favourite is dynolite classic 20w50 or 20w60 depending on whats on special offer.
I would put up a link to their specifications
but the word "lubricant" makes the web proxy at work report me for looking at dodgy sites.
www.dynolite.com I think.....
its made in Feltham.....
Dave
I would put up a link to their specifications
but the word "lubricant" makes the web proxy at work report me for looking at dodgy sites.
www.dynolite.com I think.....
its made in Feltham.....
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- WASP Speed Shop
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