silly question about ignition

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Fri Jun 16, 17 4:08 pm

Hi guys, hope this isnt a silly question, i have the dash out of my duster, and have just spent the morning replacing the turn signal cam, now i tried starting the car up just to check the indicators and such were in working order, but i have no such luck, the car doesnt even turn over. Its almost as if the battery was disconected. I am hoping its a small thing i have over looked, but does the dash need to be all wired up for the car to start? Or have i accidentally unhooked something somewhere

Cheers
chris

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Fri Jun 16, 17 9:26 pm

Check the bulk head connector,as well as both harnesses coming out of the column,and re trace your steps ,because you un plugged something

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Fri Jun 16, 17 10:42 pm

Check the multiple block connectors under the dash. One you will have disturbed to fit a new turn signal switch and look, next to that is the main ignition block which has wires that also come down the steering column from the ignition switch.
You might have disturbed that.

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Sat Jun 17, 17 1:16 pm

Have you knocked the shifter out of park/neutral. If so the trans safety switch will be open and the car will appear to be dead.

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Sat Jun 17, 17 2:59 pm

Dont think i have knocked it out of neutral, how would i know if i have flipped that safety switch

TW71 · Post by **TW71** » Sat Jun 17, 17 4:49 pm

Check to see if you have 12v on the starter relay that supplies the 12v to the starter solenoid on the starter motor when the ignition switch is turned to the start position

If its not there it sounds to be the connectors to / from steering loom / bulkhead etc as Drew and Miles was saying. I had a similar, problem common to old Mopar wiring, contact resistance in the connectors / corrosion etc.

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Sat Jun 17, 17 8:07 pm

So i have had a look at all the wiring, seems like a few wires have just split somehow, i have patched a few together again but that doesnt seem to have had any effect at all. I Cant see any connectors out or broken or anything like that and the ignition wires that go under the column with the turn switch all seem to be fine. I Dont think its an issue with the battery, but nothing electrical works at all. The battery has been disconected for the past few weeks so i dont think anything has been seeping at it. On another note (possibly related) my colum seems to have shifted inwards a bit, i cant seem to get the 4 bolts anywhere near the holes on the column.

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Sun Jun 18, 17 12:15 am

So you lost all power to the car no head lights, no horn,?as those are always live.

Well check the fusabile link,check the earths, and now you have a column that wont go back in,you will have to probably remove it and re check everything, some thing is binding up and it could very well be the wiring harness atleast that is what I would do,I have had this happen a few times and it is usually something simple,but it is a conundrum ,and a head ache ,but I am sure you will find it,do you have a factory manuel?

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Mon Jun 19, 17 3:55 pm

I think you have zapped the fuse able link
or blown your ammeter
or disconnected the wires into the ignition switch.

stuff you need to fault find

1) Multi meter with continuity beep and ability to measure voltage and resistance

2) A bulb holder that will take a 12 volt bulb and two pieces of wire with croc clips on the flying ends. put a wire to each connector on bulb holder (check you can light the bulb at the battery lead 1 positive lead 2 negative

4) Some wire wool or a multi tool with a cloth based buffing tip for cleaning connections

5) Vaseline.... for protecting clean connections

start at battery

1) measure voltage between + and _ should be 12V DC, if not put on charge.

2) with bulb put wire one to + on battery wire 2 to the body remember paint doesn't conduct so choose place wisely, end of a screw or something , light on= good

3) do the same test with wire 2, to the engine, light on, all good

4) undo the bulkhead connector. with wire 1 to body put wire 2 to each connection on the engine side of the connector. at least one of the pins should be 12 volts and light the light. probably the connector that looks burnt grotty or has melted the connector some what.

if not you have done your fuseable link. find it take it out and measure its resistance, it should have none .

if good to the bulkhead move inside

pull down fuse box

look at back of it

2 fat wires come in and loads of thinner wires leave it

one of the fat wires comes from the bulkhead connector via the ammeter (if fitted)
and the other comes from the ignition switch

if you can't light a lamp from either of the fat wires with the ignition key in run and previous tests were good

the issue is between the bulkhead connector and the fuse box

big potential for it to be the ammeter if fitted.
leads coming off the ammeter will cause a massive short and will blow the fuseable link

ammeter bypass
take out ammeter
undo both cables
put both cable rings onto 1 stud
do up tight with spiky washer and nut, put a blob of araldite on the exposed thread and bind up with normal insulating tape.

If good to fuse box

clean and polish all fuse ends and fuse holding clips
break and make each connection to the back of the box.

steering column

usually bolted in under dash and held to bulkhead behind peddles by retainer that has 4 bolts

undo the 4 bolts about 3 turns each at the bulkhead

jiggle column, waggle steering with steering lock off if necessary and get bolts under dash in
do up bolts under dash
do up bolts at bulkhead.

fuseable link

mine doesn't have one

but its the run of wire from alternator to bulkhead connector I think.

to prove this is the case you need to work out a safe way to bypass it. I have not had to do it so i'm wary about advising how.

dave

kma176 · Post by **kma176** » Mon Jun 19, 17 5:57 pm

May sound silly but working on your car with the door open/interior light on - you have got charge in your battery!!!!
Just seen earlier post about having the battery disconnected so dis-regard last comment but could still be a flat battery just check the simple first!