On the big block I used some studding and a turned down nut the same diameter as the bushing and another nut on the top side on top of a round disc where the distributor sits and used it as a puller, failing that a drive punch, all OK if the engine is apart !
Yes there are ways of removing and refitting the bush but the other benefit of the correct tool is that it swages the bush to the correct size as it installs it. You can find once installed the bush is tight on the oil pump drive and if you don't clearance it which is difficult in situ, it will stick to the drive and spin in the block, I have had that happen. So, expensive though it might be, I would want to use the correct tool.
The original factory replacement bushings were inserted then burnished with the correct tool (as shown), which as Blue said not only sized it properly but expanded it into the hole to grip properly. I'm pretty sure that some of the replacement bushings are designed to be driven in as an interference fit, then I think to be reamed to size (catering for those who did not have the factory tool.
Whether this is/was a good plan or not, be aware that there are potentially different sized bushings for the different installation methods. IIRC most aftermarket bushings are by Pioneer.
For the latter type at least (interference fit) I understand people have successfully used an old distributor shaft to drive it it and then 'ream' it to size by cutting a slot in the dist shaft (same trick as many use on cam bearings with an old camshaft).
Either way, failing to either properly secure it OR have the correct ID is to be avoided!!
Gavin Chisholm - 414ci W2 Stroker SmallBlock Panther Pink '71 Challenger convertible - in bits Car progress can be viewed here
Having attempted to further jog my memory, I think the Pioneer bushing is actually designed to be driven in and not require any reaming. I wouldn't install one without confirming this, but I'm pretty sure that's the bushing I have.
(In theory, it wouldn't hurt to use a reamer/slotted intermediate shaft anyway - if it were the right size, no material would be removed. Alternatively a check with a standard shaft would show whether it span freely or not)
Gavin Chisholm - 414ci W2 Stroker SmallBlock Panther Pink '71 Challenger convertible - in bits Car progress can be viewed here
Blue wrote:Yes there are ways of removing and refitting the bush but the other benefit of the correct tool is that it swages the bush to the correct size as it installs it. You can find once installed the bush is tight on the oil pump drive and if you don't clearance it which is difficult in situ, it will stick to the drive and spin in the block, I have had that happen. So, expensive though it might be, I would want to use the correct tool.
I was stating about taking the old one out , not installing the new one!
Thanks everyone for the input-I managed to borrow the miller tool and do the job properly-really easy to do with the correct tool and the more I read about it I'm so glad I waited and didn't just bash in and ream out!!!