Trans Shift kits and Shifters

[Dave81]

As ive nearly got all the parts for the rear end swap im looking at/starting to research the next stage in the drivetrain upgrade.

I have a 904 gearbox that was refreshed with a rebuild kit and new fluid two years ago (350 miles max).

I've already decided that im going to stick with the 904 (727 not really needed on the A body weight or for the amount im using it).
Also decided that im going to go with a floor shifter!

So, wondered what peoples shifter preferances are, and why?

As its a stock box i've also started looking at shift kits to try and get the gearchange a bit better.
The obvious one that seems to pop up is the Transgo TF2 and TF3 kits.

As above, peoples preferances and why, would also like to understand the 'seat of the pants' difference you felt post install?

Lastly,
End goal is built 360 or stroked 318 to 390/392.
What would you guys recomend in terms of upgraded internals to help with box longevity and performance (say 400hp/400ft lbs for ref)?

Much Appreciated!!

[Pete]

408ci is usually the target - Alloy heads are nice too!

[Blue]

TF2 kit is good for fully automatic, fitted a million of 'em. TF3 is full manual forward pattern, if you were going down that route Route I would go for a Turbo action reverse patten manual valve body, shifts harder and faster than the kit. Shifers, old B&M Quick click full ratchet and easy to use but hard to find. Turbo Action or Winters, basically the same bombproof design. All modern B&M & Hurst shifters I find flimsy and fiddly to use, they jam easily and personally I'd never use one.

[Blue]

You already have ally heads don't you? In that case I would get a 360 block and a stroker kit and go 408, sell your running 318 to help offset the cost.

[Dave81]

Yes John, already have the ally heads (Eddy RPMs).

Should just clarify:

The engine info at the end was to assist in terms of what would you reccomend in the 904 in relation to those hp/ft lb figures.

Im looking purely at what i should do to the 904 at this stage to account for the future engine mods. Kolene steels etc........TBH im only starting to learn the ins and outs if auto trickery boxes, so im a bit green in this area.

[Blue]

Ok first decision, leave it auto or convert to full manual operation?

[ScottyDave]

Should be an interesting thread to follow Dave, since I have a 904 also. Shift kits were something I was wondering about also.

[Dave81]

Ok first decision, leave it auto or convert to full manual operation?

Im leaning more towards auto currently as i spend most of my time on the road not track.

Not discounting anything. Happy for people to make reccomendations though if manual is considered better?

[Blue]

For what you are doing it's mostly personal preference, I have always used full manual autos in the past but the Barracuda will be staying auto with a TF2 kit. Full manual requires no kickdown linkage and has the option of being reverse pattern ( shifting away from neutral) which is a good idea. 904's might have internals half the size of a 727 but they are stout little buggers. As regards other mods I don't think you need much, a cast deep pan is always a good idea and if full manual a billet front servo and lever due to the higher line pressure. If auto then if it's had a rebuild and the clearances are correct, a shift kit should be all you need. For street/ strip use in this country I'm not convinced race frictions and kolene steels make the slightest bit of difference, same goes for bands, don't use kevlar but other than that it makes no odds, we just don't get enough track time here IMO. You also know the arguement about billet front drums, it's a big money safety item that most of us just don't need.

[Dave81]

Thanks John.

Flip side then:

If i were to go Manual Reverse Pattern is there anything additional that needs or is worth doing?

Really appreciate your help!!

[Blue]

Nothing other than above IMO.

[Dave81]

Nothing other than above IMO.

[MattH]

I'm interested to see where you go with this. My Challenger is a stock 904 built by Dave Bishop. It has the factory slapstick console mount shifter which is as fragile as anything.
If you actually try to slap it, as the name suggests, it just jams the push button and you can't move gears without unscrewing the handle and freeing up the flimsy mechanism inside. Great fun if you are trying to park and you need to whip out the Phillips screwdriver!
I'm not wanting to do anymore than drive it as an auto, so no reverse pattern etc for me, but could do with a more robust type of handle or grip.
I do quite like the slap stick idea of banging it forward for each gear but not with the handle falling to bits each time.

Suggestions most welcome.

[Dave81]

Matt,

For the price im going to go for the Transgo TF2 kit.

This seems the best compromise for full auto and firmer shifts. Ive spent all week researching and ive not seen anyone with a negative view. Most say its the best they have used.

Shifter reviews are a bit more fanboy based. Those who like Hurst like Hurst and everything else is junk. Same with B&M.
The Turbo Action CHEETAH SCS SHIFTER, though expensive, gets a lot of positive reviews from those that have tried all the big brands. I think i will do this post TF2 install so i can see the step change and difference between that and a floor shifter (current column).

The actual shifter choice. I think i'll have a look at what other members have in their cars prior to making a final decision. Lot of money to get it wrong.

[Blue]

Try a Hurst or B&M, you'll see how flimsy they are compared to Turbo action. There's another I forgot about, Kilduff, a bit wacky but bombproof and the Lenco style works really well.