Possible Coil Problem
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Re: Possible Coil Problem
Good luck Limey, keep us posted. Probably a good indication that its something to do with the carb as its just started since you cleaned it. Ive found in my very limited experience with carbs that they can be pretty fragile inside. Things like little perforations in floats which then fill with fuel and 'sink', stopping the fuel from cutting off etc, really throw spanners in the works. If you have the time and inclination, might be worth getting a carb rebuild kit and take your time on a dreary weekend to take the carb off and meticulously strip, clean, measure, rebuild it etc. We did this on my pals 53 Packard recently and although it wasn't the cure all for every running issue, it certainly helped and is done now. Was fun too!
Bat Girl Stalker Living Petes Dream
Re: Possible Coil Problem
yeah the lucas coils...... some come in a lucas box and some don't ....!
not sure i would run a blaster 2 with a ballast. it would work but mmmmm
however if you run a blaster 2 with an HEI module make sure its a branded module and you mount it with heat sink compound onto a chunk of aluminum
they suck up 5-7 amps and that is a lot of amps for the module (the switch for the coil ) to deal with
your points are limited to 2-3 amps by the ballast, to stop them melting and burning away in 5 minutes, and a blaster ii is not going to run its best with only 1/2 of the current it expects to see....
8 volt 0.8 ohm coil works with ballast and points
8 volt 0.8 ohm coil works with ballast along with mopar electronic box
12 volt 3 ohm coil (the ballast is built in) NO EXTERNAL BALLAST works with points.... but hard starting with a Mopar Starter motor and a battery that fits under the bonnet and in the tray.
The starter will suck so much current that the coil will not see very much and won't spark as well as the 8 volt coils mentioned above being run at 12 volts with the ballast switched out of circuit when starting.
12 volt 0.5 ohm to 1 ohm coil with HEI and some later Mopar like Electronic boxes like revonator and FBO. don't need a ballast as the box is designed to switch big currents of 5-8 amps. the switch to switch the coil off and on is twice as robust as points
Mopars have 8 volt coils with low resistance primaries becasue they run at 8 volts. 4 of the volts from the battery are turned into heat in the ballast resistor all the time the car is running. the ballast resistor takes a lot of grief and eventually burns out
Mopar 8 volt coils run at 12 volts when the key is in the start position becasue the starter solenoid has a wire from it to the end of the ballast that normally supplies 8 volts to the coil. the the starter relay is energised 12 volt battery voltage is switched to this wire
they do this becasue a mopar v8 has a high torque starter that uses loads of current. and it is a gear reduction starter so it doesn't spin the motor over that fast. they balance the need for torque and speed of starter motor along side the size cost and weight of the battery.
the compromise is run the coil at what ever voltage is available from the battery while starting to get a bit of a boost to start the cold engine.
Ballast is just resistance to limit the current through the switch that is chosen to switch the coil off and on (points or ignition box)
points can handle 2-3 amps
original mopar electronic boxes can handle 2-3 amps
Pertronix ignitor can handle 2-3 amps
this is done by putting 1.5 to 3 ohms of resistance into the circuit, either built into the coil primary or spread between it, and the ballast resistor. when it is spread like this you can do neat tricks to assist with starting as illustrated above. so you tended to get ballast resistors on big engines
most small 2 or 4 cylinder motors just had a coil with 1.5 - 3 ohm primary resistance built in. small motor easier to spin over and start.
modern cars, modern Bananarama! mini starters etc
don't need any tricks to get em started anymore battery tech has moved on, starters pack higher torque and faster spin speed into smaller body.
Electronic ignitions
modern mopar boxes and HEI
the switch is good for 8 amps max hence you can put in a 12 volt coil with a 0.6 ohm primary and not burn your switch out, like an FBO coil like an HEI coil like a blaster 2 or a lucas DLB198 if you are a cheapskate like me (£20 i'll take 3)
because the current flows through these coils so easily they fair better in the fight for power when the starter is running...
also once up and running they really do have a good bit of clout over and above any Points based "sports coil" set up which is still saddled with 1.5 ohm or more resistance in the primary...
MSD and all that jazz
you can use any of the above to switch an MSD box as all you re doing is using your points or ignition box to switch a very low current off and on, the MSD uses that as a signal only and has its own big fat red wire feed from the battery
the MSD uses a system of coils and capacitors to build up a massive voltage which it unleashes from time to time
in this case it doesn't matter much what coil you have... you are hitting its primary with 100s- 1000s Volt voltage not 8 or 12 volts
but for a very short time so the coil doesn't burn out. to shock it into produce a massive voltage in return at the spark plug.
its just different and is useful on high CR race motor or a 2 stroke/outboard which is what capacitive discharge ignitions are best at.
you can take the lid off a can of coke ......points and ballast
or you can boot it round the yard and take the lid off...MSD
HEI is somewhere in the middle... the can of coke you knocked over and forgot about, then opened... slight splash in an embarrassing position on the strides
dave
not sure i would run a blaster 2 with a ballast. it would work but mmmmm
however if you run a blaster 2 with an HEI module make sure its a branded module and you mount it with heat sink compound onto a chunk of aluminum
they suck up 5-7 amps and that is a lot of amps for the module (the switch for the coil ) to deal with
your points are limited to 2-3 amps by the ballast, to stop them melting and burning away in 5 minutes, and a blaster ii is not going to run its best with only 1/2 of the current it expects to see....
8 volt 0.8 ohm coil works with ballast and points
8 volt 0.8 ohm coil works with ballast along with mopar electronic box
12 volt 3 ohm coil (the ballast is built in) NO EXTERNAL BALLAST works with points.... but hard starting with a Mopar Starter motor and a battery that fits under the bonnet and in the tray.
The starter will suck so much current that the coil will not see very much and won't spark as well as the 8 volt coils mentioned above being run at 12 volts with the ballast switched out of circuit when starting.
12 volt 0.5 ohm to 1 ohm coil with HEI and some later Mopar like Electronic boxes like revonator and FBO. don't need a ballast as the box is designed to switch big currents of 5-8 amps. the switch to switch the coil off and on is twice as robust as points
Mopars have 8 volt coils with low resistance primaries becasue they run at 8 volts. 4 of the volts from the battery are turned into heat in the ballast resistor all the time the car is running. the ballast resistor takes a lot of grief and eventually burns out
Mopar 8 volt coils run at 12 volts when the key is in the start position becasue the starter solenoid has a wire from it to the end of the ballast that normally supplies 8 volts to the coil. the the starter relay is energised 12 volt battery voltage is switched to this wire
they do this becasue a mopar v8 has a high torque starter that uses loads of current. and it is a gear reduction starter so it doesn't spin the motor over that fast. they balance the need for torque and speed of starter motor along side the size cost and weight of the battery.
the compromise is run the coil at what ever voltage is available from the battery while starting to get a bit of a boost to start the cold engine.
Ballast is just resistance to limit the current through the switch that is chosen to switch the coil off and on (points or ignition box)
points can handle 2-3 amps
original mopar electronic boxes can handle 2-3 amps
Pertronix ignitor can handle 2-3 amps
this is done by putting 1.5 to 3 ohms of resistance into the circuit, either built into the coil primary or spread between it, and the ballast resistor. when it is spread like this you can do neat tricks to assist with starting as illustrated above. so you tended to get ballast resistors on big engines
most small 2 or 4 cylinder motors just had a coil with 1.5 - 3 ohm primary resistance built in. small motor easier to spin over and start.
modern cars, modern Bananarama! mini starters etc
don't need any tricks to get em started anymore battery tech has moved on, starters pack higher torque and faster spin speed into smaller body.
Electronic ignitions
modern mopar boxes and HEI
the switch is good for 8 amps max hence you can put in a 12 volt coil with a 0.6 ohm primary and not burn your switch out, like an FBO coil like an HEI coil like a blaster 2 or a lucas DLB198 if you are a cheapskate like me (£20 i'll take 3)
because the current flows through these coils so easily they fair better in the fight for power when the starter is running...
also once up and running they really do have a good bit of clout over and above any Points based "sports coil" set up which is still saddled with 1.5 ohm or more resistance in the primary...
MSD and all that jazz
you can use any of the above to switch an MSD box as all you re doing is using your points or ignition box to switch a very low current off and on, the MSD uses that as a signal only and has its own big fat red wire feed from the battery
the MSD uses a system of coils and capacitors to build up a massive voltage which it unleashes from time to time
in this case it doesn't matter much what coil you have... you are hitting its primary with 100s- 1000s Volt voltage not 8 or 12 volts
but for a very short time so the coil doesn't burn out. to shock it into produce a massive voltage in return at the spark plug.
its just different and is useful on high CR race motor or a 2 stroke/outboard which is what capacitive discharge ignitions are best at.
you can take the lid off a can of coke ......points and ballast
or you can boot it round the yard and take the lid off...MSD
HEI is somewhere in the middle... the can of coke you knocked over and forgot about, then opened... slight splash in an embarrassing position on the strides
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
-
LurkinLimey
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 18 9:10 am
- Location: Cardiff South Wales
Re: Possible Coil Problem
Hi Everybody,
Problem solved - was a fuel flooding problem.
Ended up taking to local speed shop (Body & Soul Autoworks, Cardiff) to investigate.
They reset float bowls and turned down fuel pressure form 7-8 psi to 5-6 psi.
Car now feels totally different - pulls harder, sounds crisper, starts easier and actually idles!
Sorry for setting you all off on the wrong trackabout the coil, but Many Thanks for your help & advice.
Have got a new coil ready to go in, but no need for now.
Video of a test hits to dial in the new fuel settings:
https://www.facebook.com/search/str/bod ... A3YTU5YSJ9
Limey
Problem solved - was a fuel flooding problem.
Ended up taking to local speed shop (Body & Soul Autoworks, Cardiff) to investigate.
They reset float bowls and turned down fuel pressure form 7-8 psi to 5-6 psi.
Car now feels totally different - pulls harder, sounds crisper, starts easier and actually idles!
Sorry for setting you all off on the wrong trackabout the coil, but Many Thanks for your help & advice.
Have got a new coil ready to go in, but no need for now.
Video of a test hits to dial in the new fuel settings:
https://www.facebook.com/search/str/bod ... A3YTU5YSJ9
Limey
Re: Possible Coil Problem
wicked
all sorted
dave
all sorted
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
