Hi
I have bought a replacement distributor to replace the electronic one on the car.
Having tried to get it to run I thought I would ask for any pointers.
At the moment I have had it nearly right that is it pulled hard under hard acceleration but when it changed into third gear it started to hold back.
After adjusting the vacuum advance and timing a few times I even had it virtually stopping itself when it changed to third.
That is the thing that setting it at 5 degrees btc statically as stated on the instructions then trying driving with vac off and blocked.
Then the instructions stated put vac on and if it didn't drive right adjust vac advance through vac pipe hole.
That is when I gave up and asked here to get a better idea on how to set it up from scratch.
The Vac makes next to no difference driving - it was an emissions control device - it is a distraction for now.
You must get it around a minimum of 10 - 12 degrees initial timing and you must set the Full advance at around 3200 rpm before you do anything else.
You need a timing light - preferable a "dial back" or "count back one like a Snap on to set the Full advance timing (Vac off) at a maximum of 34 degrees advance on Pump gas.
Once you have set this, check the idle rpm in "N" at around 12 - 19 degrees advanced or what the Distributor will allow (which won't be much on a stock one).
Set the rpm to around 900 rpm in "N" when this is done and then carefully check the rpm pull down in "D" if an Auto, it should drop to about 600 rpm or thereabouts.
If you have not got a good timing gun then you are dead in the water, and your only alternative would be to advance the timing until it pings and then slowly drop it back (take timing out) until it does not ping under load.
There are LOADS of timing advice threads on this board if you use the "search facility".
The other thing to watch for in the first instance is "Kick Back" where the timing is too advanced on start up.
This is the problem with standard distributors as they have a very small advance range, which is why people often go for more modern distributors - or spend hours filing and welding old style ones!
It ends up being a trade off between ease of starting vs optimum power and less over-heating issues.
The Engine is trying to fire with the pistons excessively early on the way up (over-advanced for starting - not necessarily when running) so you can get a big jolt and in worse case the stater can't crank the engine over.... On my race car it broke the nose clean off the starter motor....
