Mancini Racing ignition module kit

[Bratfink]

I had a misfire. Not knowing exactly where it was coming from and knowing the entire ignition system was getting a bit long in the tooth, I bought the Mancini Racing ignition kit. Module, resistor, dizzy etc.

Now I got no spark anywhere.

Nothing at the plugs, coil, no voltage at the resistor. Nothing.

Even switching back in the old components one by one, I still have nothing.

What on earth is going on????

Someone is going to suggest “earth” now aren’t they

[Dave999]

Theory... the new ignition used higher current than the old and finally found the limit on a corroded connector somewhere...
or you pulled a bad crimp with the disconnect and re connect
or the rubbery press fit type module connector had one of its pin receptors pushed back into the rubber

which end of resistor?

12 volt to WING end comes from ignition switch

with switch in RUN position you should have 12 volts at bulkhead and at 1 end of resistor
there should be 8-9 at the other end of it. if 0v, resistor is busted

if its Aussie, You have 2 GM style modular spade connectors, 8 or 10 way at the bulkhead.
one is for running the car the other is for all the value-added like wipers lights horn etc

undo check for 12 volts with igntion switch in RUN position, clean and reconnect


the chain of connections

battery to starter solenoid
battery to bulkhead connector to master splice which is in the loom near the wiper switch connector.
wire from here to fuse box, ignition switch, and ammeter
another wire comes from alternator via bulkhead to other side of ammeter. making a loop with the ammeter in the middle
i.e if battery or if alternator can't keep up your ammeter swings violently 1 way or the other.

fault find
1) 12 volts at fuse box?
2) 12 volts at ignition switch on 1 wire when switch off this is the feed
3) 12 volts on 3 wires when in run, 1 feed wire and 2 outputs 1 to ignition 1 to fuse box for switched 12 volts
4) 12 volts on all 4 when in start i.e 12 volts on the starter relay trigger wire as well.
5) 12 volts at both sections of the fuse box when switch in run position check back of box to see 2 sections

all good your ignition switch is ok

The switch in a VH has a crap rubber bodied bullet connector. a switch in a late VH or VJ onward has a nice 4 spade modular plastic connector which is still widely available in the UK. i have converted mine to this.

roll all the fuses in their holders
or check resistance from 1 side to other via the fuse holder clips


other method

run wire from battery + to wing side of ballast and see if you can start the car
you will have to disconnect wire to stop it
this would prove your ignition works and illustrate that it is switch or fuse box or bulkhead connector or wiring

If all else fails maybe yours is like mine
mine had a 1/4 inch giant spade connector in the positive feed from the battery. burried under loom wrap just below the washer bottle,
when it corrodes it turns to a none conductive green oxide you get 12 volt measured everywhere but it sinks to just over 1 volt when you turn on the ignition. if its humid everything works when its dry nothing does.

took a week to find it and someone stole my ignition lock and switch while i was working on it

i unwrapped meters of loom in the car only to find the issue under the bonnet
should have used resistance rather than voltage when fault finding

one positive i found was the loom was MINT everywhere apart from the last unwapped 6 inches of most circuits.

so i trimmed, used the linemans splice method, shrink wrap, and re made any suspect last 6 inches

beware of burned connectors at the headlight switch due to shorted out dome light.... things here may just fall apart. No issue you can connect the spades without the big burned bit of plastic.

Dave

[Dave999]

PS the only earthy bit in this area is the ignition box. it needs to use its case for negative... in order to see that a pulse from the dizzy has crossed 0 volt line

dizzy and box need to see the same 0 volt

and of course your earth strap. if the motor earths through the throttle cable it will snap where it connects with the peddle or exits at the ferrule before the carb. un controlled spark erosion of cable should be avoided




it is unlikely to be either of these issues

Dave