1976 Dodge D100 (Californian)

[TinDoug]

Been busy slapping paint on the chassis underneath the bed before I put the wood back on also doing flexible brake hose too, everything seems to be in really good nick underneath, though the diff has has a whack on the bottom and shifted the cover up and caused a leak (gasket on it's way)
While doing the front hoses noted that drivers side wheel bearing had some play once inside found the nut was done up all the way tight outer race looked very new and loaded with fresh grease, seems that the outer race was bottoming out on the tapered section of the spindle so decided to knock the races out and measure......

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This is what I found, the outer cup was mahoosively loose and the outer part of the hub looks like it's been "pushed" in and because they couldn't get the correct size cup in someone fitted one that would go through the smaller section but then was loose where it should be seated either that or the seat has worn ????? I'll whip the other off and bore mic it. Either way not a problem I can either get a new disc or re-machine the old one

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[Pete]

Excellent work!

[Dave999]

wonder if somone just used the wrong bearing

on the cars at least there are 2 sizes one for stubs with big balljoint taper and one for stubs with smaller balljoint taper cross over year is 1973

the stub axles in question i think differ not only in the balljoinjt area but also in the size of the axle taper which means at least 1 side of the hub has a bearing that has to cater for the new fatter axle, its a bigger cone and cup so the hub would have to cater for that.
a mismatch usually results in running out of thread with play still evident or not being able to fit the nut and retainer. you can get sleeves to cater for mismatch in some cases when doing late model disk brake swaps

if they are an ally hub and iron rotor held togther by the studs most probably OEM, parting them can be a problem. if they are a 1 piece rotor and hub... they could be aftermarket.

i'm baseing all of this on car stuff not truck stuff but i'd guess NEW improvements would end up on everything eventually. i'd expect a truck designed to carry a load to have BIG stuff anyway not the little style stubaxles used on an A body but that doesn'#t mean somone didn't stick a bearing with the wrong cup in your hub.


Dave

[TinDoug]

Cheers Dave
Always good to hear another viewpoint with helpful information, but unfortunately the hub is bananaramerd
I'm guessing that at some a bearing has let go and worn the bore for the outer cup away although in a very uniform way almost like it's been machined
Drivers side is 0 .1" bigger than passengers, I could and might try machining it out to the next available bearing size about 20 thou bigger than present o/d with the same i/d, depends whether I can get it running true on a lathe

Or maybe just get a new one? Shame as it looks as though they're the original discs, they're definitely Chrysler made

[Dave999]

it will take a bit of looking and potential cross ref in the parts book but there will be a hub out there...

if they are 2 part you can sacrifice the studs to the god of big hammers and it will come apart .

leaves you with decent rotor and just a hub to find

some truck stuff here

https://mymopar.com/parts-manuals/

if yopu want NOS or good second hand these guys can certainly lighten your wallet https://www.amsnos.com/

looks like they came as single hub/rotor combined

on the other hand this lot could be here in 3 days

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... v65akW8%3D


bearings i'm pretty sure you can get here if you have a friendly bearing supplier nearby

[TinDoug]

Thanks Dave
Great links. Hubs/rotors are one piece and like you say BIG, I've ordered a bearing and will give it a go as long as I can hold on the inner cup diameter and clock the disc in true I'll be golden but if it doesn't work out I'll get a new disc
Not dealt with rockauto for a while, worth doing over a UK parts supplier us automotive etc cost wise?

[Dave999]

usually its the speed of delivery that trumps it

UK supplier will get you anything and if its wrong, you can return it..BUT often, for say a 1976 truck, its not going to be on the shelf due to supply and demand not stacking up...costs them if its just sittingon the shlf for 10 years...

rockauto will get it for you quick, but if its wrong you are on your own, you can send it back but often its not worth it

just make sure you buy all your rockauto parts from a single one of their multiple wharehouses to keep shipping low.

they will do all the import duty etc at checkout and the club has a discount code in the traders section

its often a case of it working out about the same when all charges are applied... but for some items works well
go with a branded part raybestos delphi denso delco etc the ecconomy stuff is a false ecconomy in some cases

what is rare here isn't rare there so "where will you find another" charges are not applied and the ebay boost the postage to cover the fees type charges, that don't really work anyway, don't occur either:)

Dave

[TinDoug]

Decided to give re-machining the bearing diameter a go as I had nothing to lose so turned up an ally mandrel to do two things, one to be pressed into inner diameter and almost protrude through so I had a concentric diameter to clock up when held in soft jaws on the lathe
Well it worked better than I could have hoped for with disc face & clocking diameter only running out .002"
Bearing diameter bored out to new bearing size and mandrel pressed out again
Chuffed to bits

[Dave999]

excellent news...

dave

[TinDoug]

just make sure you buy all your rockauto parts from a single one of their multiple wharehouses to keep shipping low.

Good advice but how will I know which warehouse it's coming from? Can't see that info when I look, am I missing it?

[Dave999]

if you try and buy stuff from 2 it will tell you at checkout becasue the post and packing suddenly increases

Dave

[TinDoug]

if you try and buy stuff from 2 it will tell you at checkout becasue the post and packing suddenly increses

Dave

Cheers Dave

[TinDoug]

Been busy doing various stuff, rear diff cover had been leaking so off with that stone down a couple of bruises on the face paint cover found two tags on it one ratio other??? Any ideas?

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dash cover was badly sun damaged

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and are rare 2nd hand plus nobody makes dash caps so repaired it with fibreglass and repainted it

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not perfect but it'll do. Fitted a new connector for the neutral lockout switch old one none existant with wires just lightly pushed onto switch. Got a delivery from rockauto generally all good apart from caliper pistons which were in boxes with correct number but one much bigger than the other

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so replacement on its way in the background been looking at getting gauges working oil pressure and fuel ammeter already bypassed, temp gauge is toast and struggling to find someone to fix it so will go aftermarket then long term replace all with aftermarket and either cut dash bezels to suit or make one??

[TinDoug]

Got bed wood back in

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Not perfect which is a general theme of my work but it'll do for now. The bed wood kit came over with the truck as this seemed like a time/money saver but truth is matey I bought truck from stiffed me on 7 cheap ass pine planks, the 60 bolts still need tightening
Got a new drivers window regulator on the way as the original is devoid of any teeth and through FB got a new drivers side inside door opener as original was non functioning
Took rear drums off and everything inside was in good nick and only needed to adjust parking brake cables
Dashboard wise I have a non functioning temp gauge and long term am going to replace all gauges for new but for now got this

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And have decided to fit them into the original dash bezel which will involve some cutting but think this is the best long term solution also probably going electronic speedometer so need to research that
Thought you might like my cup holders they're staying

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[TinDoug]

Drivers door & window wrestling has been my latest adventure. The drivers window regulator was slightly lacking in teef

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I tried welding some more on with moderate success as teeth on small gear worn out
New regulators are available for '77 and onwards trucks but are slightly different as they are riveted in. So welded threads in and then fought to get it in. With hindsight I think it would have been much easier if I'd removed the vent window assy and if I have to do the passenger side I'll try that

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While I was in the area I fitted a used interior door opener bought from the US
Sourced some new wire clips for the door panel but they're slightly too short so further searching required
Also made a new arm rest and as you can see upholstery is not in my skillset

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