Dave999's Aussie Charger

[Dom66]

Seats look fantastic ! Good job

[cadboy]

Looks real good Dave

[Dave999]

last yer my faithful old original alternator failed on the way to a show
one from my shelf of bits, ex breakers yard, seized, horrible and encrusted was steeped in WD 40 and pressed into service, and yes i got there....

its done a thousand or so miles since...but i'm not comfortable with what is basically an alternator shaped hand grenade sitting there up front
it looked awful and although it works it probably sat festering since 1980....

new made sense
denso was purchased, nice little unit for not a lotta cash £65 came with connector and £80 racing pulley from some US aftermarket Mob who specialise in things other than muscle cars
and i also accidently won a hitachi LT150-188 off a 1970s nissan, £30 new old stock unipart rebuild i think, but had been handled/packaged badly and returned with a snapped off the B+ stud making it utterly useless...oh clumsy....
150 quid of new alternator for £30 on ebay, hence accidental win sling in a bid on the off chance, as you do... etc

denso has wrong pulley, it might have been fancy high sided race one, but the v belt ran in the base of the V not on the sides, pulley V way too wide... another 40 quid for a kubota one, should have just purchased a new alternator in the first place.....
hitachi needed a new stud or a whole new rectifier, 16 quid
denso needs idiot light wiring. i have no idiot light and don't need it with an ammeter
hitachi works with standard mopar regulator....

hitachi it is, cheap easy straight bracket made from 3 mm bar, and some heavy weight soldering of a new rectifier done, meant Hitachi won.

built a bracket and bodged it on, with a bit of Mk2 transit bracket to cater for the 12 o' clock top mount i really need a 2 O'clock top mount like the orginal.
hemi 6 has a mounting lug on the block that does not match any other mopar engine, in respect to width, fore/aft positioning and its strangely metric 50mm width. Also the pressed side of the timing cover means anything mounted needs to be spaced forward on a 1/4 inch washer in order to be positioned without hitting the cover... A hemi 6 standard alternator is unique and has its front mount kicked forward 1/4 inch to allow for this spacer which is necessary to allow the alternator to swivel on its mount for belt tensioning.

No other mopar alternator has this kicked forward mount. (or indeed any other alternator that i can find)
the denso has a double thickness front mount which means it is too far forward
or 1/2 inch too far back on a straight steel mount mounted on the block
and can't be mounted directly anyway, only 2mm too far forward but it can't swivel for belt tensioning

hitachi it is, i will get a curved top mount bracket at some point to make it look a little more professional...

works good, gauges all rock steady
first time in years my car has the right amount of electricity flowing through its veins....


HORNS

Aussie Charger RT has a unique set of horns, just like the beepbeep horn on the Road Runner these things are cheap crap, but rarity means anyone selling seems to think they are selling gold.... $1000 is not a uncommon asking price, or $300 for a new plastic end set

years ago the end of my horn was chopped off by my fan
since then i have felt vaguely inadequate whenever I let anyone look under the hood..

i can't do CAD very well, so i asked my son to adjust the trumptey end bit off a 3d printable actual trumpet into a new end for my horn. He didn't see merit in that idea, and just designed a new one.
we managed to get everything right apart from the rim around the end which is a bit fat...
stuck it in the lathe and took a smidge off.

printed it out and found it was too small. adjusted it by a few % in all directions, printed it and my horn trumpet part was way too big....


adjusted it by 0.1% and printed again, Just perfect, everything fitted correctly and the bit inside to stop it going on too far worked as well

sanded it
painted it
glued it on

horn restored.
both horns gripped around the bracket and man handled away from the fan so i don't get the end chopped off again.

its been a journey....I can tell ya...

ha..... got all the way through that without saying anything inappropriate


Hitachi alternators if anyone has an interest in such things
(Nissan/datsun/toyota/isuzu/chevrolet/mitsubishi) come with delco remy part numbers, mitsubishi part numbers and bosch part numbers as well
LT-150-188
LT (external regulator)
150 (50 Amp)-188 version i.e this is version 188 of an alternator used from 1970 until the late 80s
F N and B F= field, N= centre point on stator, (test only or for complicated original regulator do not use, fords use it for a complicated idiot light) B+ obvious, its the fat charge wire

LR 150-
LR internal regulator
150 50 amp
etc LRs replaced LTs in later years
S and F, F is switched 12 volt power i.e the feed that used to go to your regulator S is 12 volt battery charge sensing, fused wire to Battery +.
B+ obvious, that's your fat charge wire

Dave

[Blue]

Those are some mad looking horns, bet they scare the ‘Roos! Can’t beat a modern alternator on these old cars, gives ‘em a proper shot in the arm.

[Blue]

A viscous fan would free up a few HP if there’s something that would adapt.

[Dave999]

got one floating about somewhere
ex 318 i think

need the correct short bolts and without the current fan spacer, will fit i think....

one of those purchases that got put away safe

i'll have to dig it out

horns are unique, basic electric BUT air horn style horns.... tuned to two different frequencies...1300 sets made in 71/72
no obvious manufacturers mark, never found anything similar....lots of 1950s style chrome or indeed 24 volt things off a train.
shouldn't be this hard but a 12 volt cheap horn with some plastic tat on the front....strangely hard to find

Dave

[Stu]

Stick a couple of big awooga horns within arms reach of the window!

[Dave999]

My current distributor is an Australian Bosch. Same unit used in slightly shorter format in an aussie slant 6 and in a slightly longer format in a holden 6

Bosch below the advance plate and Mopar electronic above, any customisation for advance limiting etc involves total removal and you then need to dismantle most of it.

i thought id try something else. I like the GM HEI setup where the configuration of the advance curve is all done just under the rotor, can be done in the car and takes about 10 minutes to ad a limit bush change springs or indeed change shape of curve with a new profile to the centre plate.

so i purchased an aftermarket HEI for a Jeep six cylinder, the finest chinesium via a company in the US that sells on Amazon, based purely on the fact that it seemed tall enough to allow space beside my engine side plate for the massive head, and used the same type of hold down as a hemi 6 slant 6 and holden 6.

i took it to bits
cut off the oil pump drive at a sensible point
removed the melonized steel drive gear which has a reputation of ruinning perfectly good jeep camshafts. and replaced it with my own hemi/slant nylon gear. I shimmed it to have the same clearance as the original...thinking that, it may play some part in nylon gear survival and oiling

next i junked the big stupid red coil in cap set up so i could use my known good remote coil
this involved a swap to a 76 chevy truck dizzy cap and rotor
fitted a better HEI
fitted a new old stock condenser and flying lead/connector.

the dissy is 4mm too deep for hemi 6 so i purchased 2 2mm by 28mm shim washers

the dizzy is also 1 mm too thin its its base diameter
so i got some 27 ID 29MM OD brass tube and turned it down so my calipers, pre locked to a standard dizzy bore size, fitted and used my brake pipe cutter to slice a chunk off
with that installed all good

fitted and timed up

is it better? hard to say, recurve kit on its way it will need some fettling to get 15 initial at 850 and 28 all in as my base line (what i had previously)

ignition leads are miles too long

Jury is out on this one until i get it dialled in properly

pictures all in the wrong order

Dave

[mygasser]

you do love a bit of mix n match dave, lol. mind, you're good at it which is the important bit.
neil.

[Dave999]

mate i'll always put time and effort into the stuff i don't need to do and thus avoid doing anything to progress the current sensible project... its a disease

as you can see i'm here writing this when i should be paying attention to a meeting about a broken website