centreline autodrag which studs and lug nuts?

[redneck 75]

Got some autodrags 15 x 8 's for my 73 Challenger.My rear hubs have standard 1" studs,centreline has a 2" thick centrehub.What length studs need fitting and what length shanked lug nuts??I was thinking 2" studs with 1 3/8" shanked nut would be safe,has anyone fitted autodrags and what did you use?cheers,Jon

[Dave999]

Dunno those wheels and without a picture hard to tell
how deep is the seat, how wide is the hole that follows and how deep is it from bottom of seat to back of wheel.
how much spline rather than thread is above the hub surface for your studs, after market and there could be quite a bit standard mopar and they will have had some weird broaching done which act as a fat profile? the sleeve can bottom out on either
will the hex shape or the profile for the seat in the wheel, of the nut fit down the hole?

having a really good look is the only way otherwise you end up having to drill through the cap ends of you nice new nuts and/or cutting off some of the sleeve or boring each hole down to the seat to fit the width of the profile or the hex... been there done that. the postman was like yo-yo with nuts in boxes
measure then buy...

but what you suggest sounds reasonable to me.... but a few more measurements or dimensions or checking necessary

if the,wheels have a concave seat for the nuts and the centre bore is bigger than the hub centre the wheels are centred on the hub by use of nuts or huts with washers that match the profile of the concave seat as they seat into the profile. nip them up in a criss cross pattern in stages like you do a cylinder head.

if the wheels have a concave seat and a large hole use a nut with a sleeve that fits down the hole and a profile that matches the concave seat
but check that the sleeve doe not bottom onto the hub before the nut is seated properly onto the wheel
if the nuts are dome or enclosed end nuts check that the stud is not so long as to collide with the nut end cap before properly seating the wheel

if the wheel uses flat washers and/or flat backed nuts it must be centred on the hub and the centre bore must be a good fit for the hub center to properly centre the wheel
multi-fit wheels usually fall into this category as well

steel wheels usually flat or profiled nuts/nut/washer and usually hub centric
multi fit wheels usually flat washer and should be hub centric
alloys can be any but often have profiled seats often expect a sleeve nut, and if the hub cap/centre cap goes onto the hub centre before the wheel there was never any intention of them being hub centric
modern alloys on new cars tend to be hubcentric the fit is extremely tight and they tend to use profiled nuts. modern cars much heavier and provide potentially much higher cornering G force due to wider wheels and radial tyres and the wheels are not 13 14 or 15 inch, the leverage set up by a 19 or 20 inch wheel on a modern very low profile tyre is astronomical in comparison.... so they went all out belt n braces

EG my A body car weighs the same as a modern Mini One and has 14 inch wheels ... so you can imagine what a 5 series BMW or big audi weighs and they have 19 inch wheels and tyres with little or no side wall (flex)

if the hub is clean, the wheel is clean the nuts the studs and the centre of the wheel on the hub are not supporting the weight of the car
friction between wheel and hub caused by the tension in the studs supports the car

sorry went off on a random babble there and potentially none of it useful

filled in a gap between meeting though

Dave

[Captain Chaos]

I have a selection of Centerline Autodrags I run on my B body,unfortunately I can’t remember what I fitted in terms of measurements but will look at the weekend. The 8”s I have are different thickness through the centre I know. Come back to you