Even with my A-Arm adjusters all the way out, my wheels still tilt in with negative camber, well particularly one side. The bushes are fairly new, what could be wrong?! SUrely the construction tolerances can't be that far out because it can't have been like that when new. Its wearing the tyres on the inside edges, and doesn't drive right,
what can I do? ! Anyone had this prob?
B Body, why is my Camber all wrong?
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Dave-R
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With both adjusters full out you will have max camber.
However you want 1 degree negative camber for handling. This will not effect tire wear even though it looks well in at the top.
Moving the rear adjuster back in moves the upper ball joint rearwards to give you some caster. However as the ball joint moves back it also moves in giving you more camber. So you have to be careful. You only need 2-3 degrees caster though.
Most cases of tire wear are due to tracking. You should have only about 3mm toe in.
If the car will not come into spec then I would suspect something is not right with the front end. I know you replaced one side of the chassis. Are you sure it was jigged straight?
However you want 1 degree negative camber for handling. This will not effect tire wear even though it looks well in at the top.
Moving the rear adjuster back in moves the upper ball joint rearwards to give you some caster. However as the ball joint moves back it also moves in giving you more camber. So you have to be careful. You only need 2-3 degrees caster though.
Most cases of tire wear are due to tracking. You should have only about 3mm toe in.
If the car will not come into spec then I would suspect something is not right with the front end. I know you replaced one side of the chassis. Are you sure it was jigged straight?
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Anonymous
When i say full out i mean the bolts are set nearest the outside of the car, pushing the upper A arm outwards, and giving MINIMUM camber. However its like it wont adjust far enough and it still has too much camber.
i have had the tracking done , and done again just to make sure. but when you look at the front of the car you can see the RH wheel (passenger) tilting in at the top, and that luckily is not the side that i replaced the chassis rail on, so I know its nothing i've done.
When i replaced the rail i made sure it was aligned by measuring it in several places, and installing the K member to check it before welding it in.
wondered if it could have had a wrong suspension part fitted at one time, or if it had cheapo (bad make) part that wasnt quite the right dimensions??
Had considered cutting and lengthening the A arm by about 1/4 inch !
Hmm, maybe just die-grinding the slot would do it.
Someone once mentioned offset bushes, for getting round this problem, do they really exist?
anywhere in the south east who i could just leave the car with and they just find out whats wrong and fix it? !! As this car is testing my patience a bit.
i have had the tracking done , and done again just to make sure. but when you look at the front of the car you can see the RH wheel (passenger) tilting in at the top, and that luckily is not the side that i replaced the chassis rail on, so I know its nothing i've done.
When i replaced the rail i made sure it was aligned by measuring it in several places, and installing the K member to check it before welding it in.
wondered if it could have had a wrong suspension part fitted at one time, or if it had cheapo (bad make) part that wasnt quite the right dimensions??
Had considered cutting and lengthening the A arm by about 1/4 inch !
Hmm, maybe just die-grinding the slot would do it.
Someone once mentioned offset bushes, for getting round this problem, do they really exist?
anywhere in the south east who i could just leave the car with and they just find out whats wrong and fix it? !! As this car is testing my patience a bit.