i'm intending to rebore my 360 and fit higher compression pistons. To the unwary (me!) there is a huge variety of pistons out there. Looking at the Hughes engine site a set of Keith Black hypercutical pistons giving approx 9.5 compression seems a reasonable choice but, are they for racers only?
Advice requested! I want a tractable street engine that will pull 3.23 gears and perform well.
360 piston selection advice
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Careful. Depending on what material you select you have to bore the block to different tollerances......
There are Forged (considered the best), Hyper-wotsit (Considered the best value), and Cast (the cheapest). These all require different tollerances.
You can run up to 10:1 on the street OK and maybe a little higher, but I would call a halt at 10.5:1 personally......You can run higher with Alloy heads. Cam selection also plays a part (I believe) due to varing amounts of overlap, so you (once again) need to consider the whole package.
Enter Stage Right Mr Robson for the definitive statement....
There are Forged (considered the best), Hyper-wotsit (Considered the best value), and Cast (the cheapest). These all require different tollerances.
You can run up to 10:1 on the street OK and maybe a little higher, but I would call a halt at 10.5:1 personally......You can run higher with Alloy heads. Cam selection also plays a part (I believe) due to varing amounts of overlap, so you (once again) need to consider the whole package.
Enter Stage Right Mr Robson for the definitive statement....

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The KB pistons are great for a street/strip car that will never see more than maybe a touch of NOS. If you want to use a big shot of NOS at some point go for forged pistons.
It is the pressure in your cylinders that makes the power. But compression ratio does not determin the pressure. If for some reason you have a valve open all the time you would not have any pressure no matter what the compression ratio was.
So cylinder pressure is as much dependant on valve timing and piston speed as it is on compression ratio.
In general the more duration your cam has the higher the static compression ratio needs to be to maintain cylinder pressure. So for a milder cam 9.5:1 is fine with iron heads. In fact i would not go lower than that in the UK. A hotter cam will need around 10:1.
Too much pressure and it will 'Pink'.
If cylinder pressure ends up slightly lower that is OK because you can use more advance timing. If it is slightly on the high side you can back the timing off to stop 'pinking'.
Aluminium heads cool the combustion gasses in the cylinder and pressure is lower. So with ally heads you need to run higher compression to make up the difference.
It is the pressure in your cylinders that makes the power. But compression ratio does not determin the pressure. If for some reason you have a valve open all the time you would not have any pressure no matter what the compression ratio was.
So cylinder pressure is as much dependant on valve timing and piston speed as it is on compression ratio.
In general the more duration your cam has the higher the static compression ratio needs to be to maintain cylinder pressure. So for a milder cam 9.5:1 is fine with iron heads. In fact i would not go lower than that in the UK. A hotter cam will need around 10:1.
Too much pressure and it will 'Pink'.
If cylinder pressure ends up slightly lower that is OK because you can use more advance timing. If it is slightly on the high side you can back the timing off to stop 'pinking'.
Aluminium heads cool the combustion gasses in the cylinder and pressure is lower. So with ally heads you need to run higher compression to make up the difference.