More 727 - drippy question

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 19, 06 8:23 am

Decided to have a look at the annoying trans fluid leak this weekend. (When car stands overnight it drops fluid - A good few dozen drips I reckon - a little pool about 2-3" across.)

Nothing appeared to be amiss on gearbox , except everything was mucky. (red fluid !)
Wiped it all down, left over night, small pool in the morning. Everything above the gearbox sump-pan appeared to be clean still, but the gasket was soggy at the rear of the pan.

Decided to check the sump pan bolts. All were 'loose', so I gave then all quarter turn to 'nip them up' (not v.v.tight, just 'one hand' tight).
Took car for a run (any excuse).

Seemed Ok for a couple of hours, quick peek this morning, small pool again.

(although looks less)

It appears to be coming from the very rear of the sump-pan only, and my questions are -
a) Is there anything obvious at that end of things I should check as well as the gasket ?
b) Is there an easy way to drain it other than 'undo all the bolts and get covered' if I change the gasket ?
c) What does everyone think of 'gearbox additives' that claim to stop this sort of thing ? (like STP type stuff) ?

Thanks !

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 19, 06 8:43 am

Don't use additives.

Change the sump gasket.

Check that the leak is not actually from the small seal around the vertical shifter shaft that the linkage attaches to just above the sump on the drivers side.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 8:56 am

if you are convinced it`s the gasket and not any of the seals, drop the pan (messy), check pan is flat at especially the bolt holes as they can bend in over if over torqued. While the pan is off put a new filter on, new gasket and some nice clean fluid and away you go

http://www.mopartalk.co.uk/mopartalk/vi ... s&start=15

Derek · Post by **Derek** » Mon Jun 19, 06 10:34 am

As above but fit a drain plug ready for next time

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 10:51 am

Derek wrote:As above but fit a drain plug ready for next time

Make it magnetic to catch any metal particles that may be grinding their way around the box...
Mine has a slight leak too, but at the moment not so it drips on the drive....just a couple of little drops on the rear of the oil pan. Unless it gets worse, its (another) winter job...
Nick

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 19, 06 10:52 am

OK, hoping it is not this vertical shifter shaft seal now...
Location wise, (and I ackowledge I might not want to know the answer) is the shaft seal located here.... ?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 10:57 am

Dave said drivers side....so probably not..
N

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 19, 06 11:16 am

WHAT ? It is supposed to be left hand drive as well ????

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 11:43 am

shaft seal = front driver side
speedo seal = rear driver side
dipstick seal = front passenger side

also check the oil cooler lines and fittings

if you are lucky you may just have a knackered gasket

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 19, 06 11:43 am

From the location it looks like the sump gasket and or pan to me.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 12:38 pm

Yeah..if it looks anything like mine, it will look as if an army of dwarves have attacked the oil pan with 4lb hammers....I'm surprised my gasket functions at all! I think at some point someone took my oil pan off with a crowbar...

Oh well...its only money.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 12:46 pm

Oh hey, while I remember, I meant to ask this ages ago...

I read in a Chrysler service schedule something about the 'box being sealed as a "no maintenance" unit from the factory, just needing topping up etc. It then went on to say that if for any reason, the oil pan was removed, it then had to have new gasket, new filter, new oil etc every 36k miles. It also said that the bands need adjusting from that point on.
First thing - is that true, that the whole normal gearbox maintenance was unnecessary if the box was left with no "tampering"?

Second thing, how do you adjust the bands? It strikes me that Morgan may want to do that if he has the pan off anyway...
Is band adjustment a big deal. My haynes manual makes it sound very easy, other books say

Leave it to an auto specialist.
Can someone demystify this for me please?

Nick

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 19, 06 2:19 pm

Forget the sealed for life deal. They didn't expect these things to still be going 40 years later.

Yes change the filter while you have the pan off. Fitting a drain plug is a good idea too if you think you might need to be in there again.

Adjusting the bands is something I would do while the sump is off. I can't remember off the top of my head what the exact procedure is. It is something like tighten to 75 inch-pounds and then back off a half turn or something. I will dig out the manual and check when I get a chance.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 19, 06 2:41 pm

Dave wrote:Forget the sealed for life deal. They didn't expect these things to still be going 40 years later.

Thats what I figured.....I was just confused that they even thought they could go 60k without maintenance...My Borg Warner box on the Disco only goes 12k before its time to replace the fluid, the filter/pickup and all gaskets and seals.....Even an expected 10 year lifetime seems pretty damn optimistic with no maintenance....

My Haynes manual says something similar....Torque to specified figure then back off 3/4 of a turn or something...

Can you explain what the bands actually do? Helps me understand why you have to adjust it, I know you have a kickdown band and another one....how do they actually work..
Sorry

Dumb question, but its the only way you learn.....

nick

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 19, 06 2:43 pm

Forgot I had a manual on the computer.

Back off each band adjusting screw at least 5 turns before starting. The only tricky bit I seem to remember is that the adjusters are square and not hex. A "tapped on" socket might do. i can't remember how I do mine?

The kickdown band is on the outside left of the transmission case. You tighten it to 72 inch pounds and then back off two turns. All transmissions. Tighten the lock nut to 29 foot pounds.

The low and reverse band is inside under the pan (see photo). This one depends on which transmission and engine you have.

You again tighten to 72 inch pounds and then back off;

2 turns on the 727
3.25 turns on the 904
4 turns on the 904 with 318 engine.

Tighten the lock nut to 35 foot pounds.

The oil pan bolts shouldn't need more than 150 inch pounds.

Hope that helps.