Help....No brakes!

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Tue Jun 20, 06 2:12 pm

Just aquired a 68 Charger 440 R/T and driven the beast for the first time.

The brakes sometimes work and othertimes the pedal is not there or just sinks to the floor.

Could be sitting in traffic with my foot on the pedal when the pedal sinks into the carpet and the car then creeps forward.

Another example was after coasting for 15 secs or so down a hill....hit the pedal to find nothing but a pair of brown duds.

Any clues please....your help and expertise would be appreciated...cheers.

lee

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Jun 20, 06 2:26 pm

Check the insides of your tyres and look for tell tale fluid leaks (tou will see streaks running from the rim to the tread. If you have streaks, you are likely to have shagged wheel cylinders.

Check you got fluid in the main res. and check it isnt leaking from the back (seal in piston gone, bore worn etc.)

Basically, make sure you have fluid in the system and you dont have leaks. If you get a pedal than loose it after a while, I would say you are leaking fluid from somewhere.

If you have a booster, it wont be that as if the booster packs up you just dont get power assisted braking.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Jun 20, 06 3:08 pm

What is the colour of the brake fluid like in the master cylinder?

Sometimes the master cylinder or the wheel cylinders get rusty on the inside and leak so you can't keep the pressure up. If you are lucky it can just be worn seals.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Jun 20, 06 4:11 pm

Could be sitting in traffic with my foot on the pedal when the pedal sinks into the carpet and the car then creeps forward.

sounds like a worn master cylinder

Time to do a full brake overhaul.

http://www.mopartalk.co.uk/mopartalk/vi ... r+cylinder

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Tue Jun 20, 06 7:00 pm

That is the master cylinder for sure.

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Tue Jun 20, 06 8:38 pm

Thanks for the help and link.

Think I'll start with a new M/C and go from there.

I'll check the colour and level of the fluid for reference....Certainly no leaks showing on the wheels.

cheers

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Wed Jun 21, 06 12:03 am

if there's no leaks showing on the wheels, the fluid could be leaking into the booster (if you have one fitted).

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Wed Jun 21, 06 11:56 am

Where would I find the booster if fitted?

I was lead to believe my car had the power brake option.....Is that just front discs, and or a booster?

I figured I should be lifting the bonnet and finding a good old fashioned Servo.

Edited to say I know I'm a doghnut......and I haven't got a booster/servo.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Jun 21, 06 6:26 pm

as far as i am aware, there was several brake options on the 68 charger,-
1. manual drums,
2. power assisted drums (power=servo/booster same thing)
3. power assisted front discs (very rare)

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Jun 21, 06 7:02 pm

I had a similar problem with my Series Land Rover (very similar, 10" drums, master cylinder, wheel cylinders etc...
This is just an opinion mind, but I would say that with a fairly dramatic failure like this on a car that is new to you (ie you have no sure knowledge of prior servicing) I would say, replace/overhaul the master cylinder and all four wheel cylinders too (I'm pretty sure Nige (Rebel) told me he bought a pair for £12 each), so they are really pretty cheap. If you do that and stick on some new shoes, springs etc, you can be sure you are getting the very best from your brakes.
Arguably the brakes (esp if you have manual drums like me) are the weakest point of your Charger so they really have to be tiptop.
Nick

Oh, BTW...The Brake light warning system on the Charger - how does that work anyone? I doubt if mine actually works but was just wondering...

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Wed Jun 21, 06 7:12 pm

One thing overlooked so many times by so many people are the rake return springs and hardware, you will be amazed what a difference they make to brake feel.

I agree for the cost against safety, change out the master and slaves and check the condition of the flexi pipes, it may seem drastic to change it all now but you will feel confident in the car, it will be a heap better to drive and you can pretty much forget changing parts for a few years to come.

Rebel · Post by **Rebel** » Thu Jun 22, 06 12:37 am

limeycharger wrote:I'm pretty sure Nige (Rebel) told me he bought a pair for £12 each, so they are really pretty cheap.

Oh, BTW...The Brake light warning system on the Charger - how does that work anyone? I doubt if mine actually works but was just wondering...

Correct, I got two wheel cylinders from Neil (Wil on here) for just under 12 quid each, excellant fit. If you are going to work on your own drum brakes, make life easy and buy a pair of brake spring pliers from www.frost.co.uk very very useful for fitting the brake return springs after servicing (see my thread titled help no brakes earlier in this section).

Nick - the brake light warning system didn't light up when I lost my brakes, but it did light up when I put the parking brake on at the MOT. I'm only guessing that that's not right, maybe someone else can confirm further

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Thu Jun 22, 06 7:25 am

It should light up when you use the emergancy brake, and in theory if you lose one circuit of the brakes but that Bananarama! and miss at best.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jun 22, 06 8:39 am

How does it actually function though?
Some sort of pressure sensing valve/switch arrangement....????

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Thu Jun 22, 06 10:11 am

Yep. when I switch my back brakes off for a burnout the brake warning light comes up when pushing me pedal. There's no pressure from the backs to equalise the switch.