More 727 - drippy question

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Thu Jun 22, 06 1:33 pm

i would think your oil leak is the rear servo pin it leaks fluid all round the rear off the trans pan, the pan always gets the blame, if not as mentioned before in this thread the selector shaft seal or dip stick tube o ring all make it look like a pan gasket leak,
also i have found a major reason people dont rebuild transmissions them selves is not the rebuilding itself but if the trans dont work once you have done it is the amount off time spent trying to find out what is wrong, i can on a good day pull a trans out the car completly strip/clean/rebuild it and refitt it in say 3-4 days, and now and again if it gives me problems could spend the same amount off time again trouble shooting it, figure how many simple car services/brake work could be done in this time servicing is the best earning option, regular mechanics dont want the hassles that can come with auto boxes,
so i agree with dave etc gearboxes aint voodoo but hey they can be a hell off a pain in the ass

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jun 22, 06 9:40 pm

Cannonball wrote:i would think your oil leak is the rear servo pin it leaks fluid all round the rear off the trans pan,

Just started working on my transmission tonight as it happens (need to clean all the old oil out because of metal in it from the converter) so here is a photo of the bit Duncan is refering to which i had completely forgotton about.

Duncan is your main man when it comes to transmissions. He does this for a living after all.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jun 22, 06 9:42 pm

The pin is what the low and reverse band servo rotates on to apply that band. This is a photo of it and the band adjustment.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jun 22, 06 10:12 pm

I take it the layout is similar on the 904 box that Morgan and I have, Dave?

BTW have you ever considered a career in modelling for Haynes..?

Nick

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Jun 23, 06 8:24 am

Nick, they are similar but not identical, mines a 904.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Fri Jun 23, 06 8:52 am

cannonball wrote:i would think your oil leak is the rear servo pin

Bugger

Assuming the top pic is taken fron the rear of the car looking forward, then the location is bang on for where my leak is

That sounds like more of a job than the sump gasket....

Is it a servicable part/seal swap or is it a 'wait for the rebuild' job ?
Car is perfectly OK, drops a few dozen drips after you've used it (not enough to have to top up at all yet). Starting to think it might wait for the big overhaul...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Jun 23, 06 7:14 pm

Bit of a job getting to it I am afraid. You have to remove the tailshaft (bolts around the base of it and a damn fiddly circlip half way along it) and then remove the valve body (just a few bolts)

Then you have to loosen that band on the adjuster and lift the lever so it snaps of the band. Then the pin just knocks out to the rear with a screwdriver. There is an O-ring on it that will need replacing.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Jun 23, 06 8:05 pm

Actually. If you just remove the valve body you might be ablt to twist the tailshaft around to clear the pin.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Jun 23, 06 11:52 pm

your right dave undo the tailhousing and it should rotate out off the way, also if your lucky you might be able with just the band slackened off to draw the pin out just enough to replace the o ring without everythin fallin apart not some thin i have tried but worth a go, or real easy tempory fix drop the pan off to drain the oil clean with a non oily solvent all the area aroud the end off that pin and case and force some good quality automotive silicon sealer in on the pin and the surrounding part off the case, so long as the oil level is lower and you clean it well this should sort it till you have the box out for a rebuild, new filter and oil clean the pan new gasket and you should be ok, forgot to say let the silicon go off overnite before you reoil it

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Sat Jun 24, 06 11:06 am

Thanks - chaps -

I will get onto this next week, and let you know how I get on....

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Jun 24, 06 10:20 pm

just put a rebuild kit into my 904 box but it didn't come with a filter but found out pre 84 range rovers used a torqueflite and got a filter from a local dealer
ps: Kev the starter motor works a treat cheers

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Jun 24, 06 11:33 pm

A pleasure mate! Couldn't remember who had it off me, especially when there's been a lot of starter problem debates on here lately

. Glad it works ok!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jul 02, 06 12:23 am

Sorry guys,I disagree with some of your comments.If you know EXACTLY the working pricables of an auto box,or anything come to that,then you can rebuild it with ease.I bet if I gave most of you an auto box in peices,that box will not work once installed.We all like to think we are mechanicley(spelling)minded,but some things are left to the specialist.Also half the time we have'nt got the right tools/equipment for the job.If you don't know how something works,then how the hell can you fault find.Guessing is just not good enough.Sorry guys i'll get off me soap box.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Jul 02, 06 10:23 am

Sorry Adam. You are talking out of your bottom.

Taking a transmission apart is quick and easy. 90% of the work is in the putting it back together. I do not know how all of it actually works. The valving is complicated. But the main parts are simple to understand.

I admit it does help keeping each sub-assembly together as in my photos attached but only in that it keeps all the bits in a neat pile. When you get a rebuild kit to fit all the bits are mixed up anyway.

If you can read a manual you can rebuild a transmission. The fault finding sections of the manual and other books tells you what the likely causes of a fault are. But even without them a rebuild kit replaces everything anyway and if you check every clearence and adjustment as you go along any faults come to light as you go.

Also on the whole you only need basic hand tools, feeler guages etc.

Remember. These things are just machines. They are assembled on a production line at the factory by people that have no idea how they work either.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jul 02, 06 1:08 pm

Dave wrote:Sorry Adam. You are talking out of your bottom.

Taking a transmission apart is quick and easy. 90% of the work is in the putting it back together. I do not know how all of it actually works. The valving is complicated. But the main parts are simple to understand.

I admit it does help keeping each sub-assembly together as in my photos attached but only in that it keeps all the bits in a neat pile. When you get a rebuild kit to fit all the bits are mixed up anyway.

If you can read a manual you can rebuild a transmission. The fault finding sections of the manual and other books tells you what the likely causes of a fault are. But even without them a rebuild kit replaces everything anyway and if you check every clearence and adjustment as you go along any faults come to light as you go.

Also on the whole you only need basic hand tools, feeler guages etc.

Remember. These things are just machines. They are assembled on a production line at the factory by people that have no idea how they work either.

Hi Dave,thought you might comment on that one.Just to let you know,my bottom is now officialy closed.