suspension... and a few other q's..

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 7:56 pm

So for no posts recently haven't done much work on the dodge

.. Its changed froma get it on the road job, to a get it on the road job with improvments. Probably not the best idea but hey. Got a majour push in august to get the engine bay and subframe around the engine welded up and the front end rebuild kit put on, so I'll post another update after that

Any way I'm looking at replacing all 4 shocks and leaf springs. but was wondering at what would be a good upgrade for better handling?

Also has any one got teh special tools for the front end rebuild kit I could borrow or now where I can buy them from. Or do you not need them?

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Thu Jul 06, 06 8:38 pm

If you get KYB GR/2 shocks all round, Wil can get decent single-leaf springs for reasonable money, then you'll have decent handling (the factory sway bars help alot

).

Nice to see you've not fallen off the face of the planet

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 8:48 pm

JamesKing wrote: Nice to see you've not fallen off the face of the planet

cool, thanks for that, I'll give will a bell when I get paid...

Yeh, been a bit slack.. LOL... But still here slowly plugging away..

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 8:52 pm

You need the correct size socket to remove the UCA ball joint. Otherwise just normal tools and ball joint spliter.

You must first make sure if you have the correct suspension for the engine fitted to the car. For example if it was a 318 originally and has now got a 440 fitted you need to know what springs it should have.

If you want to increase the spring rates you need to do so equally front and rear otherwise it will understeer or oversteer badly.
Working out the spring rates for the front torsion bars is easy. The leaf springs are more tricky and I will not waste my time writing that here just yet. Decide if you really want to do it first and then i will tell you how.

You also will need front and rear anti-roll (sway) bars. These also effect the spring rates front and rear and these are damn tricky to work out.

But if you want to keep the existing springs (you can get them re-tempered) just fit the sway bars.

Fit gas charged shocks like the KYB shocks. Cheap but effective.

Set the front end up to the following specs;

Camber - 3/4 of a degree to 1 degree negative.

Caster - as much positive caster as you can get. More than 2 degrees at the very least. 3 degrees if you can. Remove a touch of -ve camber if you can't get over 2 degrees but always keep some negative camber.

Toe in - 3/32-inch

Hope that helps.

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Thu Jul 06, 06 8:57 pm

AcidHell2 wrote:cool, thanks for that, I'll give will a bell when I get paid...

Yeh, been a bit slack.. LOL... But still here slowly plugging away..

That Wil as in Neil Willet (USA Imports)

Look forward to seeing the next progress photos

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 8:58 pm

JamesKing wrote: That Wil as in Neil Willet (USA Imports) Look forward to seeing the next progress photos

lol yeh thats the one.

correct size socket to remove the UCA ball joint. Otherwise just normal tools and ball joint spliter.

snip

not sure what the rest means at the moment, sure it will come in handy when I fit it. LOL one lurning curve after another.

I've got all new replacments. So do I need these tools just to remove the hole lot?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:03 pm

You need a ball joint splitter and the UCA ball joint socket as I said. I wouldn't have said so otherwise.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:03 pm

Dave wrote:You need a ball joint splitter and the UCA ball joint socket as I said. I wouldn't have said so otherwise.

Jsut checking.. anywhere in the Uk I can get them from?

A s I really need them before august..

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:04 pm

Actually it is possible to get away without the joint splitter but if you suddenly find you need it you will regret not having it.

You need a BIG one too.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:06 pm

I can lend you the socket if mine is the right size. i will check. For a 71 charger right?

Machine mart and the like will have joint splitters.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:07 pm

oops! 72 Charger.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:08 pm

Just looked it up. Yeah mine will fit. Have you got a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:11 pm

Dave wrote:Just looked it up. Yeah mine will fit. Have you got a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar?

nope.. dont have one of them

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040212980

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210077

what size do I need?

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:16 pm

You need a 3/4" breaker not 1/2" LOL BIG stuff, or you can get a step adaptor from 3/4" to 1/2" but buy a good one or it will shear.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Jul 06, 06 9:20 pm

how about this one?

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=26264

finding a large ball jointer spliiter seems ahrder..