Steering rod - is there an easy way ?

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Kev
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Post by Kev »

Both my headers have the linkage through them, all me ball joints came apart easy, but they are less than 8 yrs old :D Also the headers can be fitted in through the top (when the engine is levitating above the bonnet line! :D )
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Pete
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Post by Pete »

When I do the Headers on the Sox Car (A Body Big Block) the car must be at least 2 1/2 feet off the ground, preferably higher - it is a real struggle.

SB are a lot easier (honest!!) On the Sox the Torsion bars and steering column and the centre link all have to come out :cry: .

In futue I would put the axle stands under the frame rails and not on the LCA's - I think that is safer and will givbe you a lot more height. I too use the Dave Robson trick of a BIG block of wood used on the Jack to get the car high enough.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Good luck and thanks for the brochure, Pete
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.

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latil
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Post by latil »

Mine had the steering through them on the drivers side,jacked the car up and put two thickness's of railway sleeper under the front wheels,took out the relevant steering joints and then dug a hole under the car to drop the header into :) Since scrapped the headers and gone back to cast manifolds,life is now easier plus you won't find many high performance 318 C body cars that actually need headers :lol:
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latil
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Post by latil »

:D :D
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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Steve has a point here. Morgan, why are you removing the headers (replacement)? If not cut them out, surely?
Lets hear it for cast iron manifolds :wav:
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

I hate cast manifolds, heavy, restrictive and far too easy to fit, where's the challenge in that? I fit headers on everything, me...
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Kev
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Post by Kev »

Even his Dyson, I've seen it! :D
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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Yer absolutely right Blue, I stand corrected :violent1:
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morgan
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Post by morgan »

Headers off (passenger side).
Had to take the steering arms off and then it came free (without undoing engine mounts!)

Starting on drivers side (steering arm all the way off, so no longer going through headers. Half starter motor undone. Given up for the night.

I am 100 times better off than I was yesterday.
Spent 2 hours trying to tease the balljoint apart (first of 5). Gave up. Called a friend (mechanic). He hit it with a very big hammer and in about 27 seconds had it off. smart arse :)

The ttis are about 4" longer than the nasty ones on there, so I will need to cut the exhausts back a bit and drive it to the local centre with just straight-out-of-the-headers (gonna sound GREAT) to get the tti conversion thingys welded on.

Half a chance of getting it back together for the nats though, so its getting better....
cheers ! :coffee:
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morgan
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Post by morgan »

That doesn't sound cheerful... :(
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latil
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Post by latil »

The main prob with headers generally is the flange,instead of being 1/2" plate they're usually 3/16" and they just will not stay tight to the heads.
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

latil wrote:The main prob with headers generally is the flange,instead of being 1/2" plate they're usually 3/16" and they just will not stay tight to the heads.
He is using TTI headers which normally have a 3/8" flange?

I don't recall stock manifolds having a 1/2" steel flange plate or any flange at all actually. :?
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