Getting a bit more used to the Charger now and have been subsequently giving him a bit more wellie.
However, from standstill if I floor the throttle (in either D or 1st doesn't matter which) he'll pop in the carb and either stall or limp forward. In limp forward mode if I back off the throttle he'll pick up slowly then get into his stride. Not helpful for Santa pod!!
Any ideas?
oh, just for info I've fitted a 750 Demon carb, but I had exactly the same symptoms with my 650 Holley
Also should mention that the motor does have a fast road cam but I'm not sure which type as it was fitted by the original owner. It also has Edelbrock performer rpm heads and inlet manifold and a 3" tti exhaust system.
With that cam heads ect I would expect that you dont have enough timing in the motor. You will need to find out the total timing (all in at 3000)
I just found a piece that has writen before try this
Dave wrote:I agree with Neil (Wil) but I think you are in danger of getting confused if you jump in the deep end too quickly.
Your best bet will be to plug the vacuum as suggested (just for this test) and set the timing to 34-35 degrees at 3000rpm.
Then see what the timing is at idle. If it is less than 12 degrees you need to take some timing out of the distributor by welding the slots in the weights a bit shorter.
If it works out as 12 degrees or a bit more that is good enough for a street car to start with. You can then try advancing 2 degrees at a time to see if the engine likes it. Chances are it will not and might loose some power.
Any sign of "pinking" back off 2 degrees. Don't forget to hook the vacuum back up after setting the timing.
Then if you really want to get technical you can follow Wil's advice and customise the whole advance curve with lighter springs on the weights etc.
My guess is it is running lean when you wang the throttle open. More accelerator pump (different cam and maybe postion 2 if you are running a Holley) and possibly up jet the primaries - I had to go up 4 jet sizes on my 440 -6 due to the "interesting" tuning additions to the car. Also check power valve if it is a Holley.
If I am talking tosh then blame it on the red wine...........Initial timing is also important and you may have to play with the Dizzy advance curve to crack that one, but my money is on the mixture leaning out.
I had same problem,as Pete said,wind in mixture screws all the way,then take them out 1 1/2 turns for starters.(one at a time,might stall)If this is no better,then take them out a further 1/4 turn & try it.I run mine @ 900 revs,750 in gear.best way is a vac gauge,but thats another story.Hope you sort it.
If the throttle blades are not closed enough at "idle" the idle circuits don't work. That can cause problems like this too and adjusting the idle circuits will have no effect.
If the idle circuits work OK you don't need a vacuum guage. You can do it with rpm if you have an accurate digital automotive meter. Just adjust lean for a drop in rpm and then rich until a max is reached. then lean again until a very slight drop in rpm.
But I think the timing needs sorting first. Then the idle position/mixture. Then the pump shot all in that order.
Yeah timing will help, but the huge open hole as you stomp it kills intake velocity dead, motor leans out and wants to stall
By nature speeds are transmission sensitive VS for autos, MS for manuals
There are certain requirements for Speed Demon selection, non of which allow the motor to get on the revs quick enough to overcome the huge hole presented to the motor when you stomp a mechanical on a heavy auto. Bigger Pump shot will help but not enough
I'm with Dave, timing, throttle opening, pump shot, sort that and you can mash the throttle at idle and it'll pull like a train, mechanical secondarys or not! Having the correct power valve helps too. Look up Daves excellent timing and carb tuning guides, work your way through them and you'll be sorted.
