rear window

jerry · Post by **jerry** » Wed Aug 09, 06 9:09 pm

can any one tell me what is used to stick/seal the rear window in a c body the welding is almost complete and time to fit glass.it was previously stuck with some type of non seting mastic but had been out in the past for previous repair, also has anyone got a diagram of window clip spacing as mine appear to have been redrilled as i have two sets of holes.
thanks jerry

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 09, 06 10:32 pm

i used sikoflex 221, it is proper windscreen sealer avilable from partco etc.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 10, 06 4:05 pm

Sean,

got any clues on how to remove the gunk Jerry is talking about? My rear screen needs cleaning and it has the residue of that non-setting "mastic" round its edges.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Thu Aug 10, 06 4:37 pm

I used celluse thinners to clean mine, messy 'orrible job mind...

latil · Post by **latil** » Thu Aug 10, 06 5:16 pm

I use a new Stanley blade with the corners rubbed blunt,at the right angle most of it comes off with one pass.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Thu Aug 10, 06 5:26 pm

That sounds like a better idea...

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Aug 11, 06 8:20 am

Well, it took about 3 hours of carefull but determined wrestling to get my rear screen out. I ended up with daubs of that muck up the arms of a decent top I have and it is like herpes for clothing. Just cant shift it.

Evil stuff. Will give both methods a try. Cheers chaps

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Aug 11, 06 8:59 am

When I remove the glass I use a length of cord out of the strimmer. It is non metallic and very strong.

You have to carefully poke it through under the glass to the interior (not with a screwdriver like a thick yank did after I explained this) and draw it through so that you can get hold of each end of the cord.
I actually use a very thin flexable steel 6" rule I have. You shouldn't use anything metal really but this ruler works great. I just loop the cord through the hole in the end and pass the ruler under the glass. It is thin and flexable enough to push through easily. Not sure I would use a normal 6" rule though.

Then with a sawing action work your way completely around the glass to free it and remove. Do the bottom edge first. Then stick some wood bits under the edge to support it while you do the rest.

I use a stanley knife blade to clean off the edges. But you have to be careful. The little that is left comes off with thinners.

Year One do lengths of the sticky stuff to seal the glass back in if you have trouble finding it. They do two thicknesses. A stock bead thickness and a slightly thicker one that goes over any uneven bits of the metalwork better.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Aug 11, 06 9:03 am

Very clever Dave, I like that strimmer idea.

Many thanks

C

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Aug 11, 06 9:20 am

I usually end up using stuff I find in my shed for most jobs.

Try a lollie pop stick or something like that to poke the cord though. It might be safer. Anything metal can damage the glass if you are not very careful.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Aug 11, 06 9:33 am

Well the glass has been out for a while. You would cringe if you saw how I did it. My mate was on his back inside the car with his feet on the glass pushing (lets keen this clean) and I was outside working my way round the stretched sealant with a stanley knife

. It took ages, I risked breking the window, but it came out unmarked. I just have lots of residual sealant round the edge I need to get off.

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Aug 11, 06 9:37 am

Some of these independent windscreen guys wil take out and re-install glass cheaply if you don't hold them liable for breakage. Twoplusone in Uckfield are one that will do it.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Aug 11, 06 9:45 am

Isnt that a bit risky though Steve? I had a guy round once to take the windscreen out of my tripple curve 55 Caddy. He said, I'll give it a go mate". I wasnt happy with that reply cos I knew getting another screen would be a boogger and a half.

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Aug 11, 06 11:07 am

Yep,it's risky,make sure you have glass cover on your insurance

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Fri Aug 11, 06 11:09 am

I used a length of rusty mig wire. The rust is essential because it acts like an abrasive, then followed Dave's instructions of sawing around the glass and it went through the mastic like a dose of salts.

Cleaned it up with a Stanley knife and I used the Year One rear screen kit (which is simply the 3M mastic on a roll with some spacers)...it was a doddle...better than my attempt re-fitting the screen, when I did (as Dave so elequently put it, what the thick Yank with a screwdriver did) and busted it