line lock/roll control question

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Sun Aug 13, 06 10:10 pm

yep thats brake smoke

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Aug 14, 06 7:21 am

Have always fitted them in the front brake line with a momentary switch on the shifter, it's the failsafe option IMHO. Fitting one in the rear line with an on/off switch is asking for trouble, and I really don't see the point.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 14, 06 9:06 am

Thank you Blue. I thought me and Guy were the only ones with any sense for a while there.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 14, 06 9:14 am

Adam68 wrote:Ever heard of TOE & HEEL Dave.

Yes. And I have done a bit of track driving myself over the years including single seaters. With feet this big it is easy.

But I don't need to in the Chally because I have my line lock fitted correctly thanks.

In fact I do left foot brake on the start line in stage. But my heel has to be in the exact position to ensure I hit the overdrive footswitch first time at exactly the right time.

Why make it more tricky? The simpler (and safer) the better.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Mon Aug 14, 06 11:57 am

I believe gear vendors do a little electronic gizmo to do that for you now Dave so you can program it to switch in and out for racing.
Switch on the shifter and electric gizmo box sorts it all out for ya, and they can program it for your set up and do free alterations too

GEAR VENDORS is electronically superior. In older vehicles without computers our simple plug in electronics still provide many features such as AUTODRIVE™ just like the car or truck came factory with the overdrive. Those older 3speed automatics also adjust their shift points automatically because we slow down the governor on the trans whenever the overdrive is on. For you this means the vehicle will not lug and will shift down to a passing gear that is really useful instead of just screaming the engine. In today's computer controlled vehicles we communicate directly with the vehicle so that shift points recognize when you are using the GEAR VENDORS and adjust performance automatically. In either vehicle you can put the electronics in auto and enjoy several features or flip a switch to manual and control everything about the gearing yourself. This is our 25th year of product development

MrNorm · Post by **MrNorm** » Mon Aug 14, 06 12:02 pm

Guys, if everyone was so concerned with maximising braking at the top end no-one would be running 3.5 inch tyres for a start! Or drum brakes, etc etc. I'm not saying it is not important (it is) but I reckon I could stop quicker (as just as safely) with fronts only with big discs and wide-ish tyres than a car with 4 wheel brakes but skinny tyres and stock drums if it came to it.
But anyway, if you can't remember to switch it off, fit a momentary switch - that is NO less safe than a front line lock.
So it is not a safety issue.

Like I said it's a matter of preference, I don't have an issue with front mounted at all, it makes a lot of sense, but on an auto I think the luxury of added control over the brakes is worth having. I also think that you should be able to optimise the drivetrain shock coming out of the water box when the tyre suddenly grips, by optimising the car speed (left foot) to the wheel speed (right foot). That's just an idea!
And of course, the whole street burnout thing is better that way. OK I'm big kid.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Mon Aug 14, 06 12:09 pm

Only heavy under powered cars need em

IMHO

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 14, 06 12:12 pm

MrNorm wrote: I also think that you should be able to optimise the drivetrain shock coming out of the water box when the tyre suddenly grips, by optimising the car speed (left foot) to the wheel speed (right foot). That's just an idea!

That is a good point!

I just ease the throttle off easy and smooth.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 14, 06 12:15 pm

AllKiller wrote:Only heavy under powered cars need em IMHO

It's a sad day when a 530hp car like mine is deemed underpowered.

I get too much grip and it comes out of the water before the slicks are hot enough.

I am a failier.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 14, 06 12:18 pm

AllKiller wrote:I believe gear vendors do a little electronic gizmo to do that for you now Dave so you can program it to switch in and out for racing.

Yeah they do something new that helps with gear splitting but I am not sure what it is. Costs a lot to upgrade.

The only "auto" feature of mine is that it switches itself on at 54mph and off at 29mph.

I leave mine in manual mode.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Mon Aug 14, 06 4:51 pm

Dave wrote:
AllKiller wrote:Only heavy under powered cars need em IMHO
It's a sad day when a 530hp car like mine is deemed underpowered.
I get too much grip and it comes out of the water before the slicks are hot enough.

I am a failier.

Mine does the same Dave, slicks smoke well but arent that hot n sticky.....

I was refering to the bigger stockers you see at car meets, that can barely spin the prop let alone the rear wheels

SteveCase · Post by **SteveCase** » Mon Aug 14, 06 6:58 pm

Steve, perhaps that's why your car is so slow, the rear brakes are gettin so hot, they're sticking on!!!
All this time, and we've found the problem!!!!!

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Mon Aug 14, 06 7:03 pm

Doh !!

What would i do without you Steve