PAinTinG by nUMbErs
Moderator: Moderators
I'm still unsure of quantities and I'll (hopefully) be doing the Fury soon...
I'm used to the rough guide that a medium sized British classic (like a Cortina, Victor whatever) needs 5 litres of celulose to do body, shuts and reverse of opening panels.
I'm told I can do the same job with 3.5 litres of 2 pack. I'm about to find out if thats right, unless I wuss out and go all celly again (I have a Victor I'm painting hopefully v. soon)
Also thats 3.5 litres of mixed product, not 3.5 litres of the paint component. So 2.5 litres of paint 1.5 litre of activator if its 2:1 ratio.
So how many litres (rough guide) would it typically take to do an A body, B body, C body... In each case assuming its panels, shuts and reverse of opening panels.
I'm used to the rough guide that a medium sized British classic (like a Cortina, Victor whatever) needs 5 litres of celulose to do body, shuts and reverse of opening panels.
I'm told I can do the same job with 3.5 litres of 2 pack. I'm about to find out if thats right, unless I wuss out and go all celly again (I have a Victor I'm painting hopefully v. soon)
Also thats 3.5 litres of mixed product, not 3.5 litres of the paint component. So 2.5 litres of paint 1.5 litre of activator if its 2:1 ratio.
So how many litres (rough guide) would it typically take to do an A body, B body, C body... In each case assuming its panels, shuts and reverse of opening panels.
With two pack material, the higher the quality, the less you need because the opcaity or covering power is greater and a thin layer of paint is much more desirable than layers and layers of it.
So the answer is you could even cover the Fury with 3.5 litres, if you were a good sprayer, with the right equipment and using a top quality material.
Use the cheap stuff and you'll use more paint, it will take longer, the job will be more labour intensive and the durability of the final finish will not be as good...that's why stripping back as much of the original paint as
possible is a good thing...it minimises the film build.
I've used 3 litres of basecoat to do the entire underbody of the Road Runner (and that's right into the corners, Gavin!) plus all the inside of the trunk floor, the complete inside of the rear fenders, the inside of the trunk lid, the entire engine bay, the inner front fenders and the inner flitch panels, bulkhead and front pillars...that's an awful lot of metal.
Don't forget though, you have to include hardener, thinner and with a basecoat system, the clear, which will mean one and a half coats over the complete vehicle too.
So the moral of the story is: cheap paint doesn't necessarily give you a low cost paint job...just a cheap one!
So the answer is you could even cover the Fury with 3.5 litres, if you were a good sprayer, with the right equipment and using a top quality material.
Use the cheap stuff and you'll use more paint, it will take longer, the job will be more labour intensive and the durability of the final finish will not be as good...that's why stripping back as much of the original paint as
possible is a good thing...it minimises the film build.
I've used 3 litres of basecoat to do the entire underbody of the Road Runner (and that's right into the corners, Gavin!) plus all the inside of the trunk floor, the complete inside of the rear fenders, the inside of the trunk lid, the entire engine bay, the inner front fenders and the inner flitch panels, bulkhead and front pillars...that's an awful lot of metal.
Don't forget though, you have to include hardener, thinner and with a basecoat system, the clear, which will mean one and a half coats over the complete vehicle too.
So the moral of the story is: cheap paint doesn't necessarily give you a low cost paint job...just a cheap one!
So a numpty with cheap equipment but decent/ish paint could do a whole job even on a large yank with five litres (mixed) and similar if not slightly less on the clear? When I set to it I want to make sure I get enough paint in one go to avoid any problems with matching between batches, but I don't want waste (as this stuff can be expensive). The underside of the car will be flat black or Schultz anyway.
I'm guessing the big part of this paint saving comes from using HVLP or similar technology rather than the good ol' high pressure gun.
I'm going to have to learn to love this 2 pack stuff I guess. I have a respirator at least now...
I even acquired a HVLP gun but I don't know anything much about it other than it was veeeery cheap. I'm going to give it a go putting 2 pack build primer on the Vauxhall. If its junk at least it was only a couple of beers.
I'm guessing the big part of this paint saving comes from using HVLP or similar technology rather than the good ol' high pressure gun.
I'm going to have to learn to love this 2 pack stuff I guess. I have a respirator at least now...
I even acquired a HVLP gun but I don't know anything much about it other than it was veeeery cheap. I'm going to give it a go putting 2 pack build primer on the Vauxhall. If its junk at least it was only a couple of beers.
Schultz?
Wasn't he in Kelly's heros?
Anyway mate, that HVLP gun will probably use a shedload of air, so you need a BIG compressor.
Five litres will do the outside of a Yank including the shuts and visibles...if you are pretty useful with a compliant gun, I'd say you could do it in four, but it would be tight and it depends on the the colour...if it's red or yellow you won't get the covering power, especially now they are taking the lead out of the colours.
I told you to get yourself a DeVilbiss GTi, now stop messing about or I'll have to send Kev up to give you a dry slap!
Good luck mate!
Wasn't he in Kelly's heros?
Anyway mate, that HVLP gun will probably use a shedload of air, so you need a BIG compressor.
Five litres will do the outside of a Yank including the shuts and visibles...if you are pretty useful with a compliant gun, I'd say you could do it in four, but it would be tight and it depends on the the colour...if it's red or yellow you won't get the covering power, especially now they are taking the lead out of the colours.
I told you to get yourself a DeVilbiss GTi, now stop messing about or I'll have to send Kev up to give you a dry slap!

Good luck mate!
As ever, thanks for the sage wisdom.
I have 3HP / 150 litre to play with. I share you concerns about the units ability to keep up with a mask and the HVLP gun but its the biggest compressor I could find which ran on single phase when I bought it and its done sterling service for nearly 10 years. I can toss the gun on eBay if its no good. it didn't really cost me anything so I'll give it a go.
If I had the beans I'd have a GTi, I'm probably going to go for a FLG when funds permit. Its a little tight at the moment though (shouldn't really have bought the Ambassador but hey...)
Oh, and not the sticky Shultz stuff, the firm set modern production line style stuff which I might even overpaint in body colour if I ever get chance
Unless anyone else can recommend a nice tidy sprayable under body protector.
I have 3HP / 150 litre to play with. I share you concerns about the units ability to keep up with a mask and the HVLP gun but its the biggest compressor I could find which ran on single phase when I bought it and its done sterling service for nearly 10 years. I can toss the gun on eBay if its no good. it didn't really cost me anything so I'll give it a go.
If I had the beans I'd have a GTi, I'm probably going to go for a FLG when funds permit. Its a little tight at the moment though (shouldn't really have bought the Ambassador but hey...)
Oh, and not the sticky Shultz stuff, the firm set modern production line style stuff which I might even overpaint in body colour if I ever get chance

That compressor should keep up by the sound of it...it may be plugging away throughout the process, but mine does and the results are fine.
The stuff I used (on Roger's recommendation, I might add) underneath and inside the fenders etc is 3M two pack stone chip available in textured and smooth...the stuff is unbelievably good and the basecoat and clear goes straight over the top, no problem.
The stuff I used (on Roger's recommendation, I might add) underneath and inside the fenders etc is 3M two pack stone chip available in textured and smooth...the stuff is unbelievably good and the basecoat and clear goes straight over the top, no problem.
If all else fails paul, if you have a Max Meyer paint stockist near to you , they should have a forget tech name , but a light reflecting camera they place on paint work then that works out the formulation for the colour on your car.Most stockists were req to have 1.
Youll have to take a sample in small piece of panel etc, bearing in mind the colour on your motor may not b original but a mix up to get similar shade, ivors help may b best as it would b formulation for the correct colour.
regards
Ivor that devilly airbrush takes me back that the 1 with the reddy maroon braided line?, had more fun playing wi that than girlies,lol, sad i know but it never talked back to me!!!!!!
Youll have to take a sample in small piece of panel etc, bearing in mind the colour on your motor may not b original but a mix up to get similar shade, ivors help may b best as it would b formulation for the correct colour.
regards
Ivor that devilly airbrush takes me back that the 1 with the reddy maroon braided line?, had more fun playing wi that than girlies,lol, sad i know but it never talked back to me!!!!!!