horn wired to fuse box?

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Anonymous

horn wired to fuse box?

Post by Anonymous »

Does anyone know if a '67 Charger fuse box and a '67 Coronet fuse box are the same?

I'm trying to work out if the power for the horn needs to be fed from the fuse box - it is at the moment..

The only wiring diagram I have is for the aforemetioned Charger and that doesn't show the horn coming from the fuse box but my fuse box DOES have horn marked on it :?

So can I feed the horn from say, the live on the alternator???

And also, not related to the horn wiring, My dash lights keep blowing the fuse when the engine revvs...is that the voltage stabiliser knackered then?

phew! deep breath now....
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

The 68,69,70 Charger / Coronet wiring diagrams are ostencibly the same (apart form some minor details such as headlight doors on the Chager in 70).

My guess is 66/67 charger and coronet will be the same too.

I stand to be corrected though? :roll:
Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

And also, not related to the horn wiring, My dash lights keep blowing the fuse when the engine revvs...is that the voltage stabiliser knackered then?
Anybody?? 8-)
cheers

P.S, Cheers Clivey!
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Dave999
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Location: Twickenham,London, England

Post by Dave999 »

My guess is its a regulator problem


voltage at the battery with alternator chargeing should be 14.5 volts
voltage at battery with alternator not chargeing should be approx 12 volts

to trigger the regulator into switching alternator in to charge mode switch on headlamps and heater motor and bring revs up to 1500-2000

if your regulator doesn't work right you could boil your battery and (but not as a consequnce of a hot battery) the voltage measuerd at the battery will be higher than 14.5 volts when the alternator is doing its thang

dash lights probably don't like an over voltage, bigger voltage pushes more current through the bulbs and burns em out

regulators come in two types, mechanical (you can adjust these by dudicous bending or screw twiddleing depending on model)

or just give it a good thump with a small hammer. it has a mechanical armature that is responsible for swicthing the current to the coils in the alternator. a good thump often loosens this if its got stuck

mechanical regualtors are supposed to be set up for the temperature of the climate the car will spend most of its life.

i.e in cold temps you usualy set em up to give a higher voltage at the battery when the alternator is chargeing and the reverse for hotter climate.

or solid state. you can buy em off Mopar performamnce or other suppliers, however i think you need to get one that isn't 'Race only'
i.e it should be the one that works with their electronic ignitions (Blue orange, chrome box) for street use


otherwise blowing bulbs can be put down to excessivly hard shock absorbers on a very low car :)

or if your dash lights are supposed to have a variable supply to allow dimming has someone bypassed it?
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