Mopar Muscle Association UK

Dave, If you do decide to go to the cylinder head shop give me a shout, I am about 4 miles from there.

Dermott Is well aquainted with said establishemnt i belive

i.e one of the places he gets bits done when he thinks they'd be better at doing it than he would be....

is Len now a sleeping partner??? i.e sold it to someone else but still works in a consultative capacity


or am i mixing up my South west engine shops

Dave

Hi Dave,

Who put the 11/32 guides in and how much did it cost please?

Got to put the same stuff(give or take) into da Poly heads.
Got all the parts just want someone I can trust and no 'trousers-down' prices to BOOT!!!
I think the guy with the Poly will wanna see you at da track next year, Hemi-6 vs 318-Poly, seems a good matchup to me LOL!

Whats da weight of your car Dave?
Need to do sum sums Think a 65 C-Bod goes nearly TWO TONS!

Bacca,

http://www.power4peanuts.com/

this chap did the heads

basically put in massive parts washer
acid dipped
then
cut out the cast iron boss
cut out the old seat
take inlet from 1.96 to 2.02
leave exhaust at 1.6

stuffed a new seat in
give it all the right angles and blend it into the bucket behind
put in the guides
cover it in gunk to stop it going rusty

X12

will check me bills....

or you can give him a call

you will get him or his wife both know the price list..
their phone is off by 17:30 due to restrictions on buiness running from residetial property...all banging and clanking must stop and seemingly so must talking

he charges what he quotes.... i.e had no funny business in regards to oh look this will be needed and its another 100 quid oh and yes so will that... type shennanigans
takes a look in the front yard quotes and thats it

I seem to be lighter by 200-300 quid every time i visit but thats the way it goes

and then there is the VAT

his charges for block work tend to be between 1-3 quid per item more than yours...

he does heads but gets blocks done by a place with bigger machines

which adds up to the petrol to get to yours but without 2 hours travel there.....and back

I'll have a look for the bill


I used

http://www.coordsport.com/our-partners/ ... onents.htm

for the valves
and ARP bits

they don't know mopars so a lot of explanation is necessary even when buying chevy valves....
and they will be cautious to enusre you realise what you are buying.. very much what the hell will we do with this if its wrong it won't fit a mitsubishi

i had F6104 and 103 but it depends on how much you want to spend
http://www.coordsport.com/attachments/F ... g_2010.pdf

EDELBROCK - CHRYSLER
PERFORMER -
E 1.600 X 5.010 F1302 F1102P F6104 F5025
I 2.020 X 5.010 F1651 F1118P F6103 F5027


standard 6 cylinder charger is 2980LB 1352 kg. thats with cast iron inlet and exhaust

mine will have neither
mine also doesn't have power brakes or steering
has disk brake dust plates deleted
no bumper overriders
aluminium wheels,,quite light you can bounce em around like basket balls

But it does have a stuffin big aircon unit wedged under the dash+
add another 100KG on for me

and diff work to get it LSD and 3.45:1 will be way off need to let pocket recover

currently a peg leg 2.92:1
performance for 70 to 120 mph is great
the rest is a bit 1600 cc cortina

Dave

dermotts buiness address

Homefield Road
Walton On Thames
KT12 3RD

dave

Hi dave,

Thanx for the info!

I assume he actually does the valve guide work himself, and doesn't farm it out?

The head work already done on your head is probably gonna flow enuff wind for an equivalent 400-cube S/B race-motor!
A quick bit of maths and we have a 50cube cylinder capacity, with a peak flow rate around 6500 rpm's.
With your smaller capacity engine to get the best outta this 'Ding-Dong' hemi head, your gonna have to rev this baby to 7500 or even 8000rpm's.

Are you getting scared yet dave???

Can't get the two original pics to load, at the begining of this fine thread?

Bacca.

yes he does the heads....thats his bread and butter...

you hit the issue right on the head with the hemi 6

odd config

not the best rod ratio
big old ports....
those pistons are moving really quite fast as the rod is quite short

ideally would have 52mm DCO/SP carbs running a 44 or 46 mm choke

265 in 4 bbl form likes a 600 holley or 650 carter you'd caluclate it out to like a 390 or 465 holley 4 bbl or a 2 barrel 500 (which work but your fuel consumption is 12 MPG)


MMmm

but instead use a 45MM carb running a 38 o5 40 MM choke

this gives absoultly superlative atomistation in the lower rev ranges low as in low in comparsiosn to what you could concivebly spin it to based on cam and valves
= real good torque and that was the key to winning or trying to win at bathurst.

sweeping curves and hairpin bends up a long steep hill

up and down over the top to exercise the suspension at both ends of its travel
few hairpins comeing down
then 1 long streight with a rt angle at the end foot the floor all the way

but with 48mm carbs everything drops off a cliff at 6000 rpm

thus saving the bottom end which goes bonkers with harminics at 6500
cam and crank smashed oil pump etc

the Historic racers have theirs set up so that everything comes toghther to get them from 6200 to 6800+ very quick so the fly wheel and balancer doesn't come through the floor and hood.

chryslers drivers span them to over 7000 with iron flywheels and cast pistons...but then again they allways had a spare one

Dave