Mopar Muscle Association UK

Cheers Jerry
i was wondering about something to ease instalation, a pic would be good if you could post one

mid plate is now done, hope to get the mounts on the frame next week and sort thr gearbox mount. once thats done i can fire up the motor ,maybe midnight new years eve on open headers (better than any fireworks )

well due to having flu all week and being stuck indoors (couldnt even do the car ) im a bit behind schedule. managed to do a couple of hours today (and its left me knackered) i managed to get the taishaft mount finished, the poly bushes are modified ford suspension bushes (had them on the shelf) all thats left to do is the stainless shaft and weld a plate to the frame to hold it.

Clever stuff as ever, Trev

It may even be a bit too good! Do you think there is enough play in it from a torsional perspective?

it shouldnt need a lot of play, the tube frame is quite rigid and the poly bush is a soft one. if it all goes wrong i have a spare tailshaft housing and i can always make it weaker by doing a blue and drilling a few holes

A little work of art as always

quality work trev,
what mtr you got for this ???

for the shake down to check it all works i have a mildly modified 440
botom end built by ICE ,comp cams 509 cam, worked iron heads, 2x 660 centre squirters on a tunnel ram. Blue built 727 rev pattern man shift etc.

i am still collecting parts for a 500+ cube stroker (as and when cash will allow)
its a long term project so as long as the chassis is good i can add the power at a later date

after 2 weeks of that poxy flu bug i got into the workshop to get something done. sourced an alternator (its a jap unit from a supra) small internaly regulated 70A should do all i need it to. modified the motorpate for it today and also made brackets for the msd crank sensor. its all coming together slowly. will get some pics tomorow (its too cold out there now)

spent all weekend making brackets for the altenator and crank trigger, dont look much but its over 15 hours work

Looking good Trev. awesome work all round

bit more done and threw the carbs on the engine, might try to get it lower in the frame so i can see past it (might need to go dry sump for ground clearance.)

Now it's all mocked up, motor looks to be very high in the frame Trev. Tube frame cars normally have the crank centre line height level with the diff pinion centre line. On a four link car a believe the pinion angle should be set at 1 to 2 degrees nose down so that everything is running in a straight line under power. How does yours measure up? If the car is set up really low, then oil pan choice is going to be very limited.

its set up with it all in line, if i drop the motor it will leave the prop shaft going up hill to the axle. i might have no choice as i dont want it all sticking out of the bonneti have emailed the frame supplier to ask the question. the frame is designed to be low, thinking i might have to go dry sump to get it low enough but that dosnt help with the prop angle .

If it's inline then thats it, even the dizzy looks like it might be above the bonnet line, it's a common problem with very low cars. You can't have the prop running uphill, that will cause breakages for sure.