Mopar Muscle Association UK

what yer adress and i'll send ya that lid

Dave

Hi Dave & David.

You may need the spring to hold down the lid by the look of this pic. ?
Looks similar to all the other Aussie PBR stuff of that time, should have a large gauge wire clip that hinges over the top of the lid like the below pic.

Yep tried to make do with the existing valve seats with no success, and Pentastar who are usually very good still haven't come back to me so a bit knackered on the VH cylinder front.

On the VJ cylinder (PBR) yes it's misisng all the seals including the lid seal and the metal cover and spring clip. Also whats the threaded hole on the underside of the master cylinfer for ?

Thanks

David

Sideways wrote: whats the threaded hole on the underside of the master cylinfer for ?

Its for the front passengers side break

I am having some master cylinder problems on my Charger, its got the PBR one it

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/files/capture_551.jpg

I was a way a run the other weekend with a bunch of mates who were driving quick nimble kit cars and ended up boiling my brakes which has had an ill affect on the master cylinder seals i have stripped it down, cleaned it out and rebuilt it twice but just cant get the dam thing to bleed the rear breaks up properly, i think the seal is passing in the rear chamber!

I have just found out that this PBR master cylinder is used on the Ford Falcon XA and XB as well as the Ford Fairlane.

I put aside the VH and VJ master cylinders and was lucky enough to be tipped off by Dave999 about a brand spanking Dodge Dart 72 master cylinder on the forum for sale.

Hence this is now fitted, new pipes fabricated and also a line lock added for the hell of it whilst the brake system was down. York raceway may tempt me next year for a laugh at run what ya brung !

Just got to replace an upper ball joint and check the diff seal and it may be MOT time. Then it's the interior to decide what to do with, patch up or replace the lot !

excellent news

need a new balljoint or just the rubber

rememebr these are servicable balljoints

i.e the kind that has a pop off cap for a grease nipple in the back

try filling it with grease first...

interior can get really quite expensive

you can get a kit

seat skins
door tops
bit above the back seat

but its bloody expensive

you can get the charger 770 or RT interior badges

1 on each door
1 in the gap in the middle of the back seat back

elko performance/Dodge city conversions have had new arm rest bases made in chrome and plain
the pads are the same as US abody
vinylcote them to your colour

carpets from oz are a bit rubbish
dash pads can be reskinned if you can find someone with a large enough vaccum forming machine i couldn't and got mine done via a famaily friend in Oz

770 dash components...aussie ebay mainly the wood grain and machine turned dash plates are quite hadr to come by undamaged

but the Switches are all Universal chrysler
its just the knobs that are Aussie

K-mart oin OZ do an identical ciggy lighter you see them on aussie Ebay

glove box bucket easy to get etc etc

Dave

Sideways wrote:I put aside the VH and VJ master cylinders and was lucky enough to be tipped off by Dave999 about a brand spanking Dodge Dart 72 master cylinder on the forum for sale.

Hence this is now fitted, new pipes fabricated and also a line lock added for the hell of it whilst the brake system was down. York raceway may tempt me next year for a laugh at run what ya brung !

Just got to replace an upper ball joint and check the diff seal and it may be MOT time. Then it's the interior to decide what to do with, patch up or replace the lot !

Was your BPR master cylinder complete with seals?

Sorry for not responding sooner:

Dave thanks for the tip off ref interior, I may patch her up and keep as is run her then next winter replace the entire interior. Ref ball joint yet again lucky a Moog ball joint NOS appeared on ebay which I snapped up. Job complete and also greased all nipples on ball joints and steering rack etc.

How much play would you advise should be on a power assisted system when in the forward (neutral) position ? seems too muchplay to me but reaching the adjuster is a nightmare due to the pacemaker headers withiout removal.

Baz the BPR is missing seals, lid and lid retaining clip. Why do you need some bits ?

David

Check power steering play with engine running There's what appears to be loads of play if the engine's not running.

latil wrote:Check power steering play with engine running There's what appears to be loads of play if the engine's not running.

Steve is spot on there.
Make sure the MOT tester checks with the engine running as well. They are supposed to!

Sideways wrote:Sorry for not responding sooner:

Baz the BPR is missing seals, lid and lid retaining clip. Why do you need some bits ?

David

Yea the seals in mine are shot

Aussi order coming up

Yep good call guys as with the engine running the power steering takes up most of the play !

if you have troubles come MOT time

just fit an 8-10 inch steering wheel

you'll pass.....they check play at the edge of the rim

loosing 4+ inches make a difference


Dave