Mopar Muscle Association UK

Nice post Daveman, can we have it saved as a sticky?

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar ... ee-rebuild

different thingy same switch and pistons

yesturday couldn't get to this due to restrictive work policy

but today i can


Dave

That's a good photo.

The "switch" isn't really a switch in that you can't "click" it or anything. It is just a screw and the wire earths the lamp.

often the contact that you attch the wire to can be dismantled and checked to see the rubber/plastic insert isn't craked and goes right down to the end of the screwy in bit

Dave

Thanks for the diagrams, but it is a different version to mine. The electrical screw in switch has a spring loaded plunger.
Must get triggered by a profile on the shuttle.
If these use O rings on the shuttle, then they won't be much good after 40 years....
I expect the front and rear lines will leak across each other past the shuttle. So if a wheel cylinder leaks it's fluid, the front line pressure will escape around the shuttle into the leaking rear line....
I will look at this after the nats

Stand / stamp on the pedal as hard as you can like you going to give your self a hernia.

witorque wrote: The electrical screw in switch has a spring loaded plunger.
Must get triggered by a profile on the shuttle.

thats like mine

hence the TOCK

i always believed the shuttle in mine has a profile that keeps it wedged one way or the other once activated by a problem

take tension off the spring in the elctrical switch bit and it goes TOCK back to the middle under the pressure of the shuttle springs.

the bulb in mind was bust so i drove for about 6 months with only the front brakes...

best braking upgrade i ever did was to replace the bulb and reset

Dave