Brake Drum Removal

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Jun 09, 13 11:43 pm

The Ratchet direction of rotation depends upon which side of the car you are working..............

latil · Post by **latil** » Sun Jun 09, 13 11:51 pm

A proper paint tin opener fits the ratchet just right to move it round

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Jun 10, 13 9:32 am

latil wrote:A proper paint tin opener fits the ratchet just right to move it round

Good tip Steve, like it.

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Jun 10, 13 9:44 am

Pete wrote:The Ratchet direction of rotation depends upon which side of the car you are working..............

Mine all ratchet UP Pete, ie: the driver sides front and rear have the toothed part toward the front of the car and the passeger side ones front and rear have the toothed part toward the rear. All the drums appear the same just turned 180 degs on axis

Before I open a can of wrigglers on this I will be able to get more pics as I know I need to replace the cable parts of the adjusters on the front drums soon

In the mean time, I'm about to start a war and peace novel/thread on my latest dash wiring problem

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Mon Jun 10, 13 9:50 am

they only made minor changes to the drum brakes

one was a swap from duo servo shoes to normal shoes in about 1964

duo servo had slightly different sized and positioned shoes so as soon as one dragged on the drum it levered the other one out hard and locked up the brakes. not good. locked rears... a case of trying so hard they failed.
used big diameter cylinder as well.

the other was the self adjuster

early the self adjuster ratchet is clipped through a hole in the shoe and works too well or rusts and binds

later it pivots on a stud.

all new brake shoes can take either clip in or stud provided you have a stud and adjuster to use.

the pictures above is the stud version

if you have bits missing just remove the self adjuster

the aussies never bothered with it on the RTs

Dave

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Jun 10, 13 11:15 am

Thanks gents....that shop manual pic is much better than mine Gary...cheers! It ties in nicely with what is in previous photos. Got more of an Idea of what I am trying to do now

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Mon Jun 10, 13 12:59 pm

all else fails, cut the Bananarama! off !!

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Jun 10, 13 1:18 pm

What a great idea mr Vader.... Straight to third base!

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Mon Jun 10, 13 1:53 pm

Would pop round on Wednesday as I'm in Bromsgrove, would have brought my light sabre, would be very quick and could do you a circumcision at the same time.

Just dont have the time now..

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Jun 10, 13 2:00 pm

Dont tease me bigboy!! X

Arran · Post by **Arran** » Mon Jun 10, 13 9:42 pm

Sounds to me like the drums are rusted to the driveshaft flange. Put the wheel nuts on to protect the studs and tap the face of the drum inbetween the studs (NOT around the outside of the drum as you could knock it out of shape) all of the way round over and over until the drum starts to 'bounce' off the flange. Once it starts moving, you will be able to tell if you need to move the adjusters as the drum will start to bind up and not turn.

Arran · Post by **Arran** » Mon Jun 10, 13 9:56 pm

Sounds to me like the drums are rusted to the driveshaft flange. Put the wheel nuts on to protect the studs and tap the face of the drum inbetween the studs (NOT around the outside of the drum as you could knock it out of shape) all of the way round over and over until the drum starts to 'bounce' off the flange. Once it starts moving, you will be able to tell if you need to move the adjusters as the drum will start to bind up and not turn.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Jun 10, 13 11:25 pm

Thanks Arran and that does make sense and would explain why I can spin the drum freely but it wont come off. Going to start with the easiest option that you suggest then progress as necessary i think. A mate of mine who has driven my car says the brakes grab on the front as the rears need to be adjusted up. That would again explain why the drums spin....

Thanks again boys

latil · Post by **latil** » Tue Jun 11, 13 8:52 am

Yes clean up the end of the halfshaft where the drum sits and give it a drop of wd40. The drum is a tightish fit on the halfshaft. As said,a few well aimed clouts between the studs should free things.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Jun 11, 13 9:37 am

Nice one gents, wish I was off work today....itching to get going on it now I have some ideas about what to do!

Cheers Steve