Brake Drum Removal

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Jun 08, 13 3:17 pm

Gents.., time has come to give my brakes the once over but I cant get the rear drums off. They spin freely by hand and Ive pressed the brake pedal to centre the shoes. Ive spun them while tapping gently with a hammer and sprayed WD40 down the studs to seep into the back of the drum. Cant move the adjusters as I think they need a really good clean up. They should slide off even without the adjusters loosened anymore as the drums rotate freely (proper adjustment needed when done)

Any tips please...am I missing something really obvious? (I usually am)

Cheers Steve

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:02 pm

You may have grooved pads stuck in a grooved drum, have you adjusted the auto adjusters on the back, you may need to wind them all the way back. This will bring the pads closer to the centre of the wheel and away from the drum

Dart Vader · Post by **Dart Vader** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:03 pm

I've just read that again, didn't notice you've tried the adjusters

That's the only thing I can think of

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:18 pm

If the drums rattle with the handbrake off (i.e not rusted on to the central spiggot) then you MUST back off the adjuster for the reason Justin mentioned.

You need to depress the adjuster lever with a piece of thick wire (I use a large split pin) whilst backing off the adjuster at the same time....getting medieval with it without backing off the adjusters will end in tears......

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:18 pm

Thanks Justin....Ive made a small tool to wind the adjusters off but they just wont budge.

Think everything needs a good clean up inside but its a bit of a vicious circle....need to clean the adjusters but need to get the drum off to do that.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:24 pm

Gotcha Pete....got me thinking, the drum spins but doesnt rattle....wonder if its stuck onto the plate that has the wheel studs on?? There are two adjuster slots on the back plate...I can feel the adjuster cog through one...whats the other one for?? Is it for access to the pin that I need to hold down??

Cheers Steve

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:34 pm

No, you have to hold the striker off with a rod AND wind back the toothed adjuster from the SAME hole at the SAME time...gynaecologist time !

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sat Jun 08, 13 4:39 pm

Sounds tricky.....and Ive got sausage fingers which doesnt help either

As they say....im not a gynaeocolgist but I will have a Bananarama! good look!

Cheers

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Sat Jun 08, 13 9:20 pm

Hi Steve, I had a similar problem with my rear drums and thought they would never budge

My adjusters were solid which in one way was a good thing as it meant the shoes were able to move back and clear of the drums ( but not good cos braking was poor

)

I spent the best part of a day with penetrating oil and a cow hide hammer and ended up leaving them soaked over night.

Next day with more persistent but moderate hammering

all round the rear edge they did eventually come off

I agree with the others that you must be as sure as sure can be that the adjusters and shoes are backed off to prevent any damage but it does sound very much like my issue, my drums were stuck/bonded on the inner faces.

This did take a lot of time and a couple of one ton bags of patience

but hang in there and I'm sure they will give in

I cleaned everything out (mask on and brake cleaner spray for the dust) and had to soak and dissassemble the adjusters to get them working, all worth it in the end.

I have some before and after pics, good luck mate and show them who's boss

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sun Jun 09, 13 11:19 am

Thanks for the advice James and really looks worth the effort! Will have another go on Saturday and see how it goes. No giving up after a couple of hours this time!

xheers Steve

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Sun Jun 09, 13 6:12 pm

Looking forward to a positive result mate

let us know how you get on and maybe pics? I'd love to see how the polaras drums compare being only 3 years previous to mine on the Demon.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Jun 09, 13 6:45 pm

Demon James wrote: .... I'd love to see how the polaras drums compare being only 3 years previous to mine on the Demon.

Exactly the same in principle.

in fact the same as the rear brakes on my 2000 Durango. There's progress for you

My '69 Bee has: Torsion bar fron suspension, Front Disc brakes, a live rear Dana axle, and 11" Rear Drums; and the 2000 Durango has:
Torsion bar fron suspension, Front Disc brakes, a live rear Dana axle, and 11" Rear Drums..............

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sun Jun 09, 13 8:25 pm

Will do James and thats unbelievable Pete!!! You would think everything would have gone all hi tech

just out of interest James... On one of your pics I can clearly see the adjuster. I assume I have to find the little notch visible next to the adjuster wheel and push the sprung lever upwards to release the adjuster to turn freely?? Its not clear in my shop manual and your pic is really clear....just needs an arrow on it!!

cheers Steve

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Jun 09, 13 8:36 pm

Any good Steve ?

<img src="" alt="Uploaded with Imgupr">

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Sun Jun 09, 13 9:56 pm

Provided everything spins freely regarding the adjuster (mine were solid

) then you need to go in through one of the two holes in the back and push the lever down. Mine ratchets the adjuster with an up motion but the picture above from the book appears to show a version that ratchets down? In which case the lever would need to be held UP to get it away from the ratchet teeth on the adjuster wheel. Then the fun bit, you need to get in there and rotate the adjuster manually to screw it in which shortens it.

Wish I could show ya cos I'm a bit poo at describing things

The first ever time I did the fronts I'd never seen drums before so the adjuster confused the brain cell out of me

as it didn't turn at all and I didn't understand what it's job was. "How the heck does a toothed round thing work with a fixed slot at each end?" I thought! Plenty of penetrating oil and twisting freed them up completely and all four now spin effortlessly

I really don't want you to break anything but honestly my drums spun freely with no rattles etc but it felt like they'd never come off!

As for your brakes Pete that's crazy! But I suppose may mean the design is pretty good/ "cost effective"

if little has changed over the years eh?