Mopar Muscle Association UK

shovelheadrob wrote:Mopar converters have the starter ring on them.

Just had a look at what's on the car already , and yes its got the ring gear integral with the converter

Blue wrote:Definalty worth trying. You'll soon know if it's right or not, too tight and it'll drag your tick over speed right down when you drop it into gear and the car will want to move, too loose and it will be a bit like driving around with a slipping gearbox.

Errr... Mine wants to move and the revs fall a bit in D or R. Not right ? Drives fine....

morgan wrote:

Blue wrote:Definalty worth trying. You'll soon know if it's right or not, too tight and it'll drag your tick over speed right down when you drop it into gear and the car will want to move, too loose and it will be a bit like driving around with a slipping gearbox.

Errr... Mine wants to move and the revs fall a bit in D or R. Not right ? Drives fine....

Its fine morg thats normal on a factory converter,+

Yep, there will always be a bit of an rpm drop as you drop it into gear, that is normal. I'm talking about a big RPM drop, where the motor is really labouring as you engage drive.

Think that's a Range Rover convertor you have there Johnny. It is a Mopar convertor but without the ring gear. The Flex plate on the rover has the ring gear on it.

Blue wrote:Think that's a Range Rover convertor you have there Johnny. It is a Mopar convertor but without the ring gear. The Flex plate on the rover has the ring gear on it.

Yes I think your're spot on there, any ideas how I might be able to use it ?
I'll have a look to see if I kept the flex plate. Bit of a long shot if the diameter and tooth number was the same as the Mopar

The flex plate will be no use to you the ring gear will be in the wrong place and probably the wrong diameter. You could probably get a new ring gear and weld it to the convertor, not sure if you should do that without cutting the convertor open first though. you could take your convertor into Sussex autos and get them to sort it but that would probably cost as much as buying the a new convertor that's right in the first place.

What about potential balance issues on a Small Block?

Blue wrote:The flex plate will be no use to you the ring gear will be in the wrong place and probably the wrong diameter. You could probably get a new ring gear and weld it to the convertor, not sure if you should do that without cutting the convertor open first though. you could take your convertor into Sussex autos and get them to sort it but that would probably cost as much as buying the a new convertor that's right in the first place.

Humm, I'll have to have a look at the original one that's on the car , and the high stall one , together, and see what I can do with the ring gear off the original,or buy a new one.

what would you recommend stall speed wise ?

thats a boat anchor high stall wont be high will be about 2,002 rpm,s just dot Bananarama! about with it bin it

Pete wrote:What about potential balance issues on a Small Block?

318, so I guess neutral balance.

Cannonball wrote:thats a boat anchor high stall wont be high will be about 2,002 rpm,s just dot Bananarama! about with it bin it

Add it to the scrap pile then

Thought it was a 360... bin as Duncan says I guess or Fleabay.......

If I am going to buy a new one, what would you aficionados recommend, stall speed wise.

318ci/XE268 cam/pro comp alloy heads/ quick fuel 600 VS/air gap intake/headers/3.77 diff

In a 1972 Dart Swinger

3,000 stall with those gears. Can go for more cam when you upgrade it to a 360