Sam.......your missing the potential of this site here and in the other thread.
You've paid the subscription now let the forum guys help you.........you have Pete coming to you.....good step.
Why do you want a brand new car and inlet and nearly 700. As shown in the other thread, you'll get good condition second hand stuff for half that. Intake is a lump of metal......The carb can be freshened with a rebuild kit IF it's needed.
Mufflers........bet you could get a pair from someone on here in good condition for a lot less than new.
Get Pete to check it out and give you a list. Source it, beg, steal and borrow from club members if possible. Then get it to Anton..........Job job'd
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 16 9:58 pm
by Dave999
Dug out spare shaft
Picture tomorrow
Front joint mint
Yoke ok
Rear joint is dead
Based on measurement your shaft takes small dodge joints
UJ 7260.
Used in dodge trucks until the late 80s
U.S. Automotive. Will have them. Get a pair of greaseable body joints instead of a sealed for life joints if you can. (dana) Spicer make them
Unless your shaft is bent I doubt it needs a balance
Dave
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 16 10:22 pm
by Gareth
Dave999 wrote:U.S. Automotive. Will have them. Get a pair of greaseable body joints instead of a sealed for life joints if you can. (dana) Spicer make them
Don't forget to tell US Automotive that you are an MMA member. You'll get discount on "in stock" items. I probably recoup my MMA membership cost each year through this one club benefit.
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 16 10:32 pm
by RobTwin
Dave81 wrote:
Mufflers........bet you could get a pair from someone on here in good condition for a lot less than new.
I think we've still got a pair of used but fairly good mufflers that could be incorporated into a new system, and only in Hitchin....
Let me know if you want us to double-check.
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 16 8:55 am
by SammyH770
Dave999 wrote:Dug out spare shaft
Picture tomorrow
Front joint mint
Yoke ok
Rear joint is dead
Your shaft takes small dodge joints
UJ 7260.
Used in dodge trucks until the late 80s
U.S. Automotive. Will have them. Get a pair of greaseable body joints instead of a sealed for life joints if you can. (dana) Spicer make them
Unless your shaft is bent I doubt it needs a balance
Dave
Thanks Dave, much appreciated. Pete is coming up on the 13th, let me know when I can pick the propshaft up, can only do weekends really.
I will contact US Automotive about the UJ.
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 16 9:02 am
by SammyH770
Dave81 wrote:Sam.......your missing the potential of this site here and in the other thread.
You've paid the subscription now let the forum guys help you.........you have Pete coming to you.....good step.
Why do you want a brand new car and inlet and nearly 700. As shown in the other thread, you'll get good condition second hand stuff for half that. Intake is a lump of metal......The carb can be freshened with a rebuild kit IF it's needed.
Mufflers........bet you could get a pair from someone on here in good condition for a lot less than new.
Get Pete to check it out and give you a list. Source it, beg, steal and borrow from club members if possible. Then get it to Anton..........Job job'd
Hi, yes I will take all the help I can get! I can't afford to be ripped off but I don't know enough to do things myself so any help is really appreciated
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 16 9:05 am
by SammyH770
Dave999 wrote:
SammyH770 wrote:
Its all so mind-boggling, not sure what to do.
1) A 600 cfm vac sec holley carb and inlet manifold and gaskets (the whole lot) from Real Steel is £664.49 delivered.
2) I just spoke to Bailey Morris about the propshaft but I would need to take the propshaft out and take it to them, I can't do that, I wouldn't know how to get it out or put it back in.
3) I think the steering problem is going to be a big issue, if it has already been rebuilt then there's not much else can be done but there is so much play,
1) get the inlet of Stu and Gareth and get a second hand carb
although I'd buy one that some one is willing to say works.... like someone on here
2) I'll check my spare prop-shaft out tonight. you will need it before the weekend if you want uncle Pete to fit it. (I know he is just coming for a look but I'm doing my best to play on his conscience)
3) rebuilt but not adjusted. once adjusted it could be fine.
1st adjustment should be done with box off car by rebuilder as part of the rebuild
THE second is usually done on car
PROBABLY Not done by previous owner because he was not mechanically minded
he probably just fitted it as it was fresh from the rebuilder
1st adjustment
undo hex ring
whack the bloody box top round a bit
do up hex ring
2nd
adjust the sector mesh so the box is stiff in the middle with the wheels off the ground. once engine is running no stiffness will be noticed
Get Pete to do that.
Job done
He loves that kinda thing probably
Dave
I am watching the second one
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 16 9:11 am
by Dave999
let me know when you want to come TW25RW I'll PM my address
or save 70 miles of M25 there and bacl and pick it up at WD18 9RN any time between 09:00 and 18:00 week days.
if we are going to be out i'll stick it in the Bin cupboard under the stairs to the house.
Apologies I only ever go up your way if I fancy a day somewhere flat with too much sky or I'm going to santa pod.
didn't find the one I'd seen recently last night but after weeks of engine wrangling the garage looks like a bomb hit it
Dave
Great, thanks Dave, I will come to the Watford place as it is nearer, about an hour and a half from me so I'll leave work at 4 and should be there by six, I can only do Monday though?
The thing in the pic, that's a propshaft right? and is it a complete replacement for what is on the car? and I need to buy one UJ (the one you said in an earlier post? let me know how much you want for the propshaft too. What do you mean about a big hammer? lol
Rare in the UK, have argued that these exist on this very message board
I have never seen one on UK ebay
but the 465 works very well on hemi 6s and 273 and 318 V8s
the aussies love it for all round duties on anything up to 351
small enough to make your car more of a stump puller
but big enough not to restrict top speed on the street
possibly not the best bet for drag racing but for towing your fishing boat full of snapper and bilge up the public slip.... EXCELLENT.
Dave
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 16 10:40 am
by Dave999
SammyH770 wrote:
Great, thanks Dave, I will come to the Watford place as it is nearer, about an hour and a half from me so I'll leave work at 4 and should be there by six, I can only do Monday though?
The thing in the pic, that's a propshaft right? and is it a complete replacement for what is on the car? and I need to buy one UJ (the one you said in an earlier post? let me know how much you want for the propshaft too. What do you mean about a big hammer? lol
Monday is fine
i'll PM you full address and phone number
Yep that's a prop shaft out of a wrecked VH 770 charger 318 v8
that I found in west Sussex car had had front wing taken out by a tree which had twisted the front chassis arm up
but was insurance write off "chassis must be destroyed" so I took everything else worthwhile
let me have another look for a joint and if I find it i'll put it on this weekend
that means it should just swap in.
Buying 1 spare new joint will be useful in case the front joint decides to die.... its a 20 quid part
all I did was clamp the yoke in my vice with a cloth round it and waggle the thing about. no obvious signs of ware no grittiness but I'm not going to twist it like a motor does due to my tiny ladies hands
you can have it it hasn't moved in 8 years
I'll take your old one at some point if you don't want it or buy me a pint at the nats
I only had it for cutting down to size. I once had a plan to fit a Toyota W58 5 speed manual gearbox to my car but once I saw the chassis hacking necessary and the cost of custom bellhousing clutchfork etc I change my mind.
yes your prop shaft is a big long metal cylinder with a swivel joint at each end. connects gearbox to axle
the shiny bit is the yoke it has a spline to the inside that slides over the output shaft of your transmission. it just slots in
it moves back and forth a bit as the rear suspension goes up and down
it has a seal around it to stop all the oil in your transmission falling out
the other end joint (the rustly looking one in the pictures) is clamped to the input on the axle by two tiny metal straps and 4 11 mm headed bolts
you wouldn't think that it takes the full torque of the engine but it does.
BIG HAMMER
the joint is held into the end of the shaft by metal cups (filled with rollers) that fit into the eyes in the end of the shaft you can see them in the pictures looking like they have never been hit with a socket and a big hammer
the cups tend to get stuck
so although last night I got the retaining clips off and gave it some attention with an old socket and a really BF Hammer
they didn't move
so its having a bath in WD40 at the mo.
and the BFH will come out again.
I don't own a press and my VICE aint big enough to push them out so I have to tap tap tap
1/2 hour job
Dave
how it all works
You Tube video from Mr Dana and Mrs Spicer showing how it all works