Mopar Muscle Association UK

Clutch Switch

Now, this has been something that has been so surprising for me and is turning out to be one of the most important parts of the bike.

The clutch switch is a very simple on/off micro switch which is triggered when you let off the clutch. In fact with the bike up on axle stands it is set up to trigger just as the rear wheel starts to lock to the gearbox.

This Switch triggers a few very clever things to help you get down the track!

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2 Step

A lower lanch rev limiter (2 Step). While the clutch is pressed a preset lower rev limit is engaged allowing the driver to hold the throttle fully open at the start line. This will allow you to launch constantly off the line and then the bike will return to its run limits for the upshifts.

Lanch ns 1st - 5000rpm (Clutch pressed)
1st -2nd - 11000rpm (Cluch Not pressed)
Lanch is 2nd- 3rd - 12000rpm (Cluch Not pressed)
etc etc

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Timmer

The releasing of the switch starts a timmer this can action many things and I'm still trying to get to grips with it all.
Logging, for example, is started and recorded onto a hard drive to allow for analysis later.
Cameras can be actioned to start recording and the list goes on and on. AKA in 10 Sec time after run let the water pump run for 3min to cool bike till 62c blah blah blah

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Anti-lag

Anti-lag is focused on dumping fuel into the exhaust system, so it can ignite further downstream from the combustion chamber and help the turbo or turbos spool up to build boost.

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As I have very limited space up front on the clutch control level I decided to make up a bracket and mount the switch directly on the gearbox slave cylinder output shaft.

Due to steering geometry and steering rake.i have been struggling with rose joints binding / bottoming out. Found this very cool misalignment washers that allow for more travel. I’m also told you can buy specialist rose joints with this in the design. Steering all set up and ready

Nice work
Are you going to use any type of steering damper to prevent the dreaded " tank slapper " ?

Nice work
Are you going to use any type of steering damper to prevent the dreaded " tank slapper " ?

I'm sure those shock are about 1500psi, I was warned not to strip one myself!
I've had similar problems with rose joints, a cheap simple solution is to fit a split spring type washer either side.
I can see chinning the tyre might make you feel a bit nervous mate! Could you get a carbon/ kevlar mudguard made?
Mossy- you know I'd be on there in a heartbeat

Mossy68 wrote: Sun Feb 03, 19 12:07 am Nice work
Are you going to use any type of steering damper to prevent the dreaded " tank slapper " ?

Hub center steering so no slappers here !!
Well on paper if we have designed it correctly

https://motochassis.com/Articles/Steer/STEER.htm

Great Progress.

McGill Motorsports sell the Hiem spacers - very good service too!

Stupid Q. When ones has a 2 step (launch rev limiter) is the burnout done on this 2 step rev limiter or will I need to configure a second button to have a higher Burnout rev limiter ?

autofetish wrote: Sun Feb 03, 19 8:30 pm Stupid Q. When ones has a 2 step (launch rev limiter) is the burnout done on this 2 step rev limiter or will I need to configure a second button to have a higher Burnout rev limiter ?

Have a 2 stage dyna for my Zed , but never fitted it.
Clutch is in ready for launch ( creating the " stutter box " scenario on full throttle)
On burnout clutch will be out , and I doubt you'd need full throttle anyway , but either way 1st stage will be "off" once clutch lever is released ( or whatever type of set up you have )
You get my drift !!!

Mossy68 wrote: Sun Feb 03, 19 10:22 pm ( or whatever type of set up you have )

Yep, i get yah. My set up allows you to configure it every way you could think of plus a few more!

My only question was how is this normally done in the bike world?

As I have a much larger rear tyre wanst sure if a higher Burnout rev limiter was required to break traction as the idea of the 2step is not to break traction.

I take it the addition of front brakes and water box make this easy

autofetish wrote: Mon Feb 04, 19 10:25 am

Mossy68 wrote: Sun Feb 03, 19 10:22 pm ( or whatever type of set up you have )

Yep, i get yah. My set up allows you to configure it every way you could think of plus a few more!

My only question was how is this normally done in the bike world?

As I have a much larger rear tyre wanst sure if a higher Burnout rev limiter was required to break traction as the idea of the 2step is not to break traction.

I take it the addition of front brakes and water box make this easy

Ok. So back in the day , with a dyna set up.
Stage 1would be set for launch rpm ( adjustable)
Stage 2 for rev limiter ( again , adjustable)

Into water box ( ride past , then back in to keep front wheel dry !!! ), apply front brake.
Nice smokey burnout.
Up to pre stage.
Stage. Over grip for full throttle ( stage 1 cuts ignition , and holds it at set rpm )
Green light.
Clutch out , and wait for shift light / preferred rpm , then shift to second ........... Etc.
2nd stage is to stop a KABOOM, if you miss a shift etc.

Hope that helps you Will

Yep understood thanks i will configure a second button to deactivate the 2 step allowing me to do a burnout at any rev.

Wheel speed sensors

These are the latest and greatest wheel speed sensors for there size. They will be mounted inside the front wheel and off the rear swing arm for the rear wheel and magnetically pick up of the bolt heads. You tell the computer that 32 bolt heads are one revolution and the diameter and we have ground speed. While ground speed can be interesting it is the compassion between what the front and rear wheel that is really what we are looking at.

The system has the ability to create a traction map and allow for an amount of slip at a given RMP or speed or time. Once the computer sees an amount of Slip outside its pre-programmed table it will retard ignition or change fuel supply to produce less power.

This is a full closed-loop system (A closed loop control system is a set of mechanical or electronic devices that automatically regulates a process variable to a desired state or set point without human interaction)

I'm glad i didn't go 550hp turbo till i have got all this Bananarama! worked out.

Communication to the onboard computer is done via Can with a USB convertor. Fitted a nice socket for data logging and adjustment in the pits !

The detail stuff is fantastic Will.
I'd like to think i could build stuff like this, but the level you go to is way past my simple mind!!!