N2O Advice please... Good and Bad!

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Wed May 11, 11 12:23 pm

Ain't that the truth, Duncan, very entertaining to watch, costly and disappointing for the driver......

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed May 11, 11 1:00 pm

I will always remember Brutus returning to the pits after a nitrous run, he said he felt a slight bump at 3/4 track and the power went off.
We found the center section of his carb was sprayed to the underside of his bonnet.
Evidently the dizzy had phased and fired the mixture in the manifold.
Amazingly it still ran back to the pits on the idle jets

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Wed May 11, 11 1:05 pm

Knightcharger wrote: Amazingly it still ran back to the pits on the idle jets

I bet they were big puppies ,though

Very melted carb as I recall.....

db · Post by db » Wed May 11, 11 1:36 pm

So i'm basing my research now on a simple sub-150 hp kit. Something like the Sniper (£309 from Real Steel) or even DIY! (see links below)

Any opinions on fuel reg types please?
Whats the 'right' fuel pressure?

Seems to be some sensible advice here-
http://www.nitrous.info/engine-preparat ... itrous.htm

A good explanation of problems of pipe diameters/ N2O metering, etc here-
http://www.nitrous.info/jetted-at-solenoids.htm

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed May 11, 11 5:48 pm

i especially like this page

http://www.nitrous.info/nos-fuel-solenoid.htm

where he uses the end of a biro to make a seal for his solenoid.....

Top man.....

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu May 12, 11 1:10 am

Ok Paul you seem determined enough so here we go.
The first thing is to understand the chemistry.
N2O 3 atoms, 1 of nitrous and 2 of oxygen.
Nitrous oxide at room temperature is an odorless non flammable gas
Nitrous is inert and will not burn so 1/3 of this crap is going through the engine and coming straight out the other side weird init.
As we all know the oxygen puppies are Goooood for burning we like them.
So how do we get the goodies and the baddies apart.
Heat it to approx 1300 °C. at which point the little buggers separate so we can use em for what we want that is BIG BANG.
As we know oxygen will not burn on its own so we need to add an accelerant and what do we have on hand Hydrocarbon so that will do.
The problem is knowing the right quantities.

db · Post by db » Thu May 12, 11 8:39 am

Dave999 wrote:i especially like this page

http://www.nitrous.info/nos-fuel-solenoid.htm

where he uses the end of a biro to make a seal for his solenoid.....

Top man.....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu May 12, 11 11:53 am

Knightcharger wrote:The first thing is to understand the chemistry.
N2O 3 atoms, 1 of nitrous and 2 of oxygen.
Nitrous oxide at room temperature is an odorless non flammable gas
Nitrous is inert and will not burn so 1/3 of this crap is going through the engine and coming straight out the other side weird init.

Not quite right. N2O means two atoms of Nitrogen and one of Oxygen. So it is 30% oxygen compared to 21% in air.

Nitrogen is inert and does not burn so 2/3rds of the molecule is coming out the exhaust.

However when injected into an intake manifold it also cools the incoming fuel and air which makes it much denser. Therefore each stroke of the engine gets a bigger charge of air/fuel with an almost supercharger type effect.

db · Post by db » Thu May 12, 11 5:10 pm

...and (from Burgerman's site) the inert Nitrogen also absorbs heat helping with engine cooling.

I've just found this link on his site:
http://www.nitrousoxidesupplies.co.uk/
They'll be at the NATS as OFFICIAL SPONSORS!

I spoke to a very helpful bloke called Simon (01652 680555).
They do NEW FULL 11lb bottles for £199.
Refills (collected and returned by courier) £73.
50 litre cylinder FULL to do your own refilling around £400 delivered.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu May 12, 11 5:14 pm

Just like HP, you never finish paying for it.

This is why I like BIG, SIMPLE engines

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Thu May 12, 11 6:49 pm

Pete wrote:
This is why I like BIG, SIMPLE engines

Amen to that!

db · Post by db » Fri May 13, 11 10:22 am

A full-time 600hp motor is out of my league, so to to get an occasional taste of that for just a few hundred quid and a bit of simple plumbing... you gotta admit that has a lot going for it?

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri May 13, 11 11:14 am

make friends with ya local dentist/hospital......

!

or buy your own manufacturing facility

http://www.nitrousoxidegasplants.com/ou ... lants.html

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sun May 15, 11 10:44 pm

How fast are you looking to go and what does your car weigh.
It sounds like you've got a fairly strong motor there, i would run it and see what it's like first, you might be pleasantly suprised.
I ran a nitrous system on my Dart with the 340 motor and it took about 9/10 off the et, went 12.8 on the motor and 11.87 on the gas. I think it was a NOS power shot, or something like that, cant remember exactly, it was about 20yrs ago. I traded it for a set of hooker f.wells when i fitted the BB.
Mick

db · Post by db » Mon May 16, 11 1:02 pm

Mick- i want it to scare me

To be honest i'm sure the Belve's gonna be quick enough as it is, but i'm also sure i'll want a bit more.... you know what i mean!

As for weight, i did work out a guesstimate once. It's all steel but no inner f. wings, full cage, Ally heads, manifold, mini-starter, no X-member, rack steering, coilovers all round, Ford 9", ally rad...

I'm mainly interested now in A-whether a diy system will work, B- how cheaply a reliable system can be made, C- how it compares to a proper bought-one.
I'll test it out on the Truk before it goes near the Belve!