Motor plate

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Mon Jan 23, 12 4:59 pm

Not much help but gets me a picture

pete walton · Post by **pete walton** » Mon Jan 23, 12 8:07 pm

I have got a set of the old elephant ear type somewhere amongst all the crap,if you want them there yours for free +postage,,,

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Mon Jan 23, 12 8:07 pm

baccaruda wrote:On amore serious note!

What effect does the M/P have on the waterpump?
As we are aware the pump blades run fairly close to the timing case.
If you don't use a gasket they actually rub on the case!
If you then fit an M/P then the blades will be up 8-10mm away and I'm pretty sure that will cause cavitation???
I personally would not use a M/P, its pure racecar stuff.
I would always prefer using the standard block mounts and a pair of 2x2inch outriggers coming outta the frame rails, like the early funny cars used to do.

Just my twopennys worth!
I await to be shot down in flames with abuse (as usual) LOL!

Baccaman, whatdoIknow?

I have never known a problem with a motor plate & water pump.

The pump doesn't know if it's located on the block or the plate. Why would it cause cavitation by being a short distance away ?

In fact I have now gone away from a standard pump & gone to rad mounted pump

I personally use gaskets either side of the motor plate, I have also ran various water pumps, Mopar & after market without issues

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Mon Jan 23, 12 8:08 pm

Rightly or wrongly, I have never used a Fore & Aft torque strap, turnbuckle or similar.

I do run with front plate, mid plate & urethane gearbox mount

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Jan 23, 12 10:23 pm

Ditto me with the Urethane mount - lifesaver (or at least tail shaft saver

db · Post by db » Mon Jan 23, 12 10:38 pm

Wow, lots to think on there, thanks for all the input.

Baccattacc- i was concerned about the waterpump too. The chamber the fan spins in will no longer be a close fit to the fan so rather than pumping, it seems to me it will allow a by-pass effect, reducing the pumps efficiency.
However- Mark has been there, done that and proved us both wrong- can't argue with that

( I'll be keeping a close eye on the temp anyway...)

Mark- i'm not using a mid-plate, just the front plate and poly trans mount (later type). I

Will- I remember the pics of your mounts when you 1st put 'em up. Very neat solution but i dunno if i want to start again!

Nick- everyone has a slightly different answer. The more i see the better!

Pete Walton- If yours will fit i'd be very grateful, i thought the elephant ear type were for big blocks? Do you have a pic?

Other Pete- I'll think more about the torque straps. I understand the principal, just a matter of figuring out the best solution.

Right, i think thats everyone covered

Meanwhile, here's the latest progress...
Trans mount with rubber hacked out, degreased & de-rusted. Poly inserts arrived from Summit
Anton's mount design put into Kellog's finest.

db · Post by db » Sat Jan 28, 12 2:32 pm

Pete wrote:It's Fore and Aft movement that you need to control.

Take it off the engine mounts and to the chassis - use both engine mount lugs - they have been known to break just one

I'm thinking of running them from the engine mounts to the steering rack crossmember (i'm going to run diagonal braces from the chassis rails to support this crossmember).
Whaddya think?

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Jan 28, 12 7:01 pm

You definitely need to stop the engine moving fore and aft with a 4 speed. I had a motor plate on my Duster, you could see the engine moving when you depressed the clutch pedal, it turned out to be the reason the thing wouldn't shift cleanly at high RPM....

pete walton · Post by **pete walton** » Sun Jan 29, 12 8:48 am

Ahh presumed it was a big block,, so ears are no good,but there still yours to cut up and abuse if you want them....

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Sun Jan 29, 12 3:27 pm

Blue wrote:You definitely need to stop the engine moving fore and aft with a 4 speed. I had a motor plate on my Duster, you could see the engine moving when you depressed the clutch pedal, it turned out to be the reason the thing wouldn't shift cleanly at high RPM....

You would not have had a top answer like that on facebook long live the message board

db · Post by db » Sun Jan 29, 12 4:34 pm

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Jan 29, 12 5:04 pm

Get the headers in first and see what clearance you have.

Maybe you can put the bars from the mounts facing backwards, or as I suggested off the Trans "K" member, but I cannot remember if there are any easy place to pick up on the manual trans (I'ts easy with an Auto).....

db · Post by db » Sun Jan 29, 12 7:20 pm

Yes, good point Pete i'd not considered the headers.
I'll look at the trans too. I was a bit wary of putting all that force through the bellhousing but spoke to Dave Billydidgerydoo and he says that would be fine

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sun Jan 29, 12 9:59 pm

db wrote:Yes, good point Pete i'd not considered the headers.
I'll look at the trans too. I was a bit wary of putting all that force through the bellhousing but spoke to Dave Billydidgerydoo and he says that would be fine

all you need is 1 tie bar, either of the rear extension bolts on the trans mission rear wards to the crossmember, or a rod from a bellhousing fixing to front crossmember or off a block mounting nr the front to the front crossmember, a 440/383 have handy round holes facing down nr the pan rail front off the block dont know on a smallblock though..

db · Post by db » Sun Jan 29, 12 11:42 pm

Cheers Dunc.
Once i've finished fitting this bloody fireplace i'll get back on it